Nkhondo yaku Armenia kwa alendo

M’mphepete mwa phiri kunja kwa mzinda wa Yerevan, likulu la dziko la Armenia, pali chithunzi chakuda ndi choyera cha mwamuna wa zaka 24. Wowomberedwa pamutu ndi pamapewa, wavala yunifolomu yankhondo, ali ndi nsidze zokhuthala, mphuno yayikulu ndi makutu pang'ono a kolifulawa. Chithunzicho ndi chatsatanetsatane kotero kuti ngakhale kupindika kwa apulo wa Adamu wake kumamveka bwino.

Amayang'ana kutali pang'ono ndi lens ya kamera, mawonekedwe owonetsa kukwiya komwe gulu lankhondo lamukakamiza kuti ajambule chithunzi chake. Pamanda ake pali maluwa awiri owuma achikasu.

Ambiri mwa mazana amiyala yamutu kumanda a Yerablur ali ndi mawonekedwe a nkhope ya wakufayo. Apa pali anthu a ku Armenia omwe anazunzidwa ndi nkhondo ya Nagorno-Karabakh, yomwe inakhala zaka zisanu ndi chimodzi mpaka 1994, pamene chigamulo chosavomerezeka chinafika.

Dziko la Armenia ndi dziko loyandikana nalo lakum'mawa, Azerbaijan, akadali pankhondo yolimbana ndi dera la Nagorno-Karabakh. Chofunika kwambiri, mdani wakale wa Armenia kumadzulo, Turkey, adathandizira Azerbaijan ndikutseka malire ake a 330km (205 miles) ndi dziko lotsekedwa ndi nthaka. Pomaliza, mu Okutobala, kupita patsogolo kwenikweni kunachitika pazachuma ndi mgwirizano pakati pa mayiko, ndikusaina ma protocol omwe posachedwa adzatsegula malire amodzi.

Mkulu pakati pa zolinga zachuma za boma la Armenia pa mgwirizano wa Turkey ndi kulimbikitsa ntchito yokopa alendo yomwe ikukula. Unduna wa Zachuma ukuganiza kuti alendo 422,500 adayendera dzikolo m'miyezi isanu ndi inayi yoyambirira ya chaka chino, kukwera ndi 2008 peresenti panthawi yomweyi mu XNUMX, ndipo ikuyembekeza kuonjezera chiwerengerochi ndi malire okhazikika.

Armenia yakhala ikunyengerera poyera alendo omwe angabwere: mu Seputembala dzikolo lidakondwerera tsiku lawo loyamba la International Tourism Day, pomwe koyambirira kwa chaka chino visa yolowera ku Yerevan's Zvartnots International Airport idachepetsedwa ndi 80 peresenti mpaka ma dram 3,000, pafupifupi $ 8 (£ 4.75). Komabe, popeza ndinalibe ndalama ya m’deralo, anandilipiritsa ndalama zokwana 15.

Kumanda kumanda, munthu wofufuma kwambiri yemwe akusamalira manda (ogwira ntchito pakhola yabuluu amakonda kukhala akuda kuposa makalasi olemera a ku Yerevan) amandigwira chanza, ngati kuti takumana ndi vuto wamba, zomwe zimandipangitsa kudabwa ngati anthu atero. kulepheretsa zokopa alendo ndi kaimidwe kawo kotsutsana ndi Turkey.

Pambuyo pake, woperekera zakudya anandiuza kuti: “Ambiri amaganiza kuti ndondomeko zimenezi si zabwino, 60 kapena 70 peresenti ndi okwiya kwambiri. Akuganiza kuti tiiwala [zakale].”

Zochititsa chidwi zambiri za Yerevan zikuwonetsa kukwiyira kwake dziko lomwe masiku ano limalamulira 60 peresenti ya mbiri yakale ya Armenia. Kuyang'ana pakatikati pa Yerevan, komwe kumapangidwa ngati bwalo lamasewera pomwe kutalika kwa mzindawu kumayambira 900m (2,900ft) mpaka 1,300m pamwamba pa nyanja, ndi Amayi Armenia (achithunzi pachikuto). Idakhazikitsidwa mu 1967, Amayi a Armenia amaima 21m kutalika ndipo amakhala pamtunda wa 43 metres womwe umapanga maziko a chifanizo cha Stalin. Amayang’ana phiri la Ararati, lomwe panopa lili m’dera la Turkey, lomwe n’zomvetsa chisoni kuti n’lophimbidwa ndi utsi tsiku limene ndinapita kukacheza mu October, mwezi wa October, wotentha mopanda mvula.

M'dzanja lamanja la Amayi a ku Armenia muli lupanga, lotsika kotero kuti limathamangira kutsogolo kwa mimba yawo. Kuchokera patali mawonekedwe a thupi ndi zida amapanga mtanda, woyenera dziko lomwe linali loyamba kutengera Chikhristu monga chipembedzo chake chaboma. Pamaso pa chibolibolicho, cholembedwa m’zilembo zachiameniya za zaka 1,700, pali mawu akuti “Sitikudziwa dzina lanu, koma kulimba mtima kwanu n’kosafa”.

“Iye ndi wokonzeka kukweza lupanga lake kuti ateteze ana ake aamuna,” akufotokoza motero Elya, wonditsogolera alendo, yemwe amachokera ku zigawo za kumpoto kwa dzikolo. "Ndizowopsa ku Turkey." Akunena gawo lomalizali ndikuseka, koma pali vuto lalikulu kumbuyo kwa nthabwala.

Elya amadzitcha "wa Armenian wamba - zomwe zikutanthauza kukonda dziko lako". Akuti anthu aku Armenia akhala ali pachiwopsezo cha "kuchotsedwa padziko lapansi". Elya anatchula mawu a mmodzi wa atsogoleri Achinyamata a ku Turkey a otsalira a Ufumu wa Ottoman kuchiyambi kwa zaka za zana lapitalo: “Ndi munthu mmodzi yekha wa ku Armenia amene ayenera kusungidwa padziko lapansi, ndipo ameneyo monga chionetsero m’nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale.”

Mawu oipawa akubwerezabwereza m’mutu mwanga pamene ndinali kuyenda kuchokera ku Yerevan, kumapiri a kumpoto chakum’maŵa, kupita ku phiri la kumadzulo, kumene kuli Nyumba ya Chikumbutso cha Kuphedwa kwa Genocide and Museum. Pano, anthu a ku Armenia adapereka dandaulo lawo lalikulu motsutsana ndi Turkey. Nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale, yojambulidwa pansi ngati bwalo, imafotokoza za kuphedwa kwa anthu aku Armenia okwana 1.5m ndi gulu lonyanyira dziko la Young Turks.

Chifukwa cha kusamvana kwa chikhalidwe ndi zipembedzo, akuti kupulula mafuko kunayamba mu 1915 pambuyo pa kugaŵanika kwa kukhulupirika kwa anthu a ku Armenia pa Nkhondo Yoyamba Yapadziko Lonse. Wotsogolera wolankhula Chingelezi wodziŵa bwino m’nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakaleyu amandisonyeza ziwonetsero zosonyeza anthu a ku Armenia amene anapambana mamendulo a Olimpiki kwa Ottoman mu 1912, ndiyeno chithunzi chochititsa manyazi cha anthu a m’dziko lawo atapachikidwa ndi ufumu umenewo ku Aleppo zaka zinayi pambuyo pake. Pali zolengeza zodzudzula kuphedwa kwa atsogoleri apadziko lonse lapansi, kuphatikiza kalata yaposachedwa yochokera kwa bwanamkubwa waku California Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Turkey imakana zochitika za Armenia, ndipo ndizomwe zimagawanitsa Yerevan lero. Pokhapokha ngati dziko la Turkey likuvomereza kuphedwa kwa fuko, anthu ambiri a ku Armenia sakufuna kusaina pangano lililonse ndi mdani wawo wakale. Chosangalatsa ndichakuti wotsogolera nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale satengera malingaliro awa. “N’kwachibadwa kwa anansi kukhala ndi maunansi abwino padziko lonse lapansi,” likutero.

Ndikupita kukatikati, kufunafuna zokumana nazo zosangalatsa. Ndilo likulu la mzinda waukhondo kwambiri lomwe ndidawawonapo, kuchapa komanso kukonzedwa m'mawa uliwonse. Izi ndizowoneka bwino kwambiri - mawonedwe a Victory Bridge, omwe amadutsa mtsinje wa Hradzan, amawonetsa zisakasa zofolera ndi malata m'mbali mwa phiri lomwe silitali kwambiri.

Komabe, pakati ndi komwe kuli malo ambiri odyera ndi mipiringidzo. Ndipo ndi loto la okonza mizinda. Pali gulu la msewu lomwe limagawanitsa bwino mzindawu m'magawo osavuta kuyendamo, ozunguliridwa ndi mphete ya lamba wobiriwira. Pali akasupe paliponse, palibe ochititsa chidwi kuposa omwe ali kutsogolo kwa National Museum m'malo omangamanga omwe ndi Republic Square, ndi nyumba zake zazikulu, zokongola zomangidwa pakati pa 1920s ndi 1950s. Tsiku lililonse, 8 koloko masana, akasupe a nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale amawalitsidwa mu blues, reds ndi greens, ndi kuvina ku zolemba za nyimbo zachikale.

Nthawi ya chakudya chamadzulo, ndipo ndimayika pachiwopsezo nyama yamwana wang'ombe tjvjik, chakudya chosapatulika chokhala ndi mtima ndi mapapo, pamalo odyera otchuka a Caucasus. Chochititsa chidwi n'chakuti, kukoma kokoma kwa anyezi ndikomwe kumawononga chakudya. Zakudya zina nthawi zambiri zimakhala zokoma, kuchokera ku barbecue ya nkhumba yosavuta koma nthawi zambiri yokongoletsedwa bwino, ku kyalagyosh, chisakanizo cha phala cha mkate wopanda chotupitsa, ng'ombe, yoghuti ndi adyo wokometsera ndi mphodza.

Malo odyerawa ndi osuta pang'ono, chifukwa cha zomwe zimawoneka ngati masewera adziko lonse osuta fodya, koma ndi otsika mtengo. Mwachitsanzo, Mudzi Wathu, womwe umalimbikitsidwa kwambiri ndi wamba komanso womwe uli mkati mwa malo ofikira alendo ozungulira Opera House, umakhala ndi ndalama zokwana $30 pa chakudya cha anthu awiri, kuphatikiza oyambira, maphunziro akulu, moŵa ndi vodkas wamphamvu modabwitsa. Pothedwa nzeru ndi mowa wa vodka komanso osachita chidwi ndi mowa - anthu ambiri am'deralo amakonda Kilikia, ngati madzi otsekemera komanso otsekemera monga momwe mphamvu yake ya 3.8 peresenti ingasonyezere - ndimatengedwa kwambiri ndi mtundu wapamwamba kwambiri wa Ararati.

Marspet, woyendetsa taxi, akufotokoza bwino mwachidule izi pamene tikudutsa ku likulu la kampaniyo ndi chikwangwani chake chachikulu chachikasu cha Ararat. "Zabwino kwambiri," akutero akundipatsa chala chachikulu ndi kung'ung'udza kwazakudya zokhala ndi golide. Ubwenzi woterewu ndi wofanana ndi wa Yerevan. Anthuwo ndi owoneka bwino komanso ovala bwino, osawoneka ndi amuna komanso anyamata ang'onoang'ono ovala suti zoyera za Miami. Komabe, kufanana kwa anthu - 98 peresenti ya anthu aku Armenia ndi amwenye - ali ndi vuto lowonekera. Mu lesitilanti ina, mwamuna wina wa ku France wa fuko la Afirika anafunsa funso lomwelo funso lomwelo kwa nthaŵi XNUMX pa zimene iye akuona kuti: “Kodi nchiyani chimene chiri chovuta kwa ine? Aliyense amene si woyera ndi wakuda tsitsi adzaima patali mailo pano. Mwina zokopa alendo zambiri zisintha izi.

Ndimayendera chigawo cha Erebuni kumwera chakumadzulo kwa mzindawu. Apa ndi pamene Yerevan anakhazikitsidwa mu 78BC - 29 zaka Roma isanafike. Ndimayenda mozungulira mabwinja a linga la Erebuni, lomwe limadziwika kuti "Linga la Magazi" chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa ma tulip ofiira omwe amamera m'mphepete mwa phirili. Zojambula pamakoma otsala apa ndizokonda kwambiri kumayiko akumadzulo, ndi mitima yayikulu ndi mawu oti "kupsompsona".

Kuteteza wolemekezeka wakunja amene akuyang'ana m'mabwinja omwe ali m'mabwinja ndi mamembala a usilikali, ntchito ya zaka ziwiri yomwe ndi yovomerezeka kwa amuna pokhapokha ngati akuphunzira PhD kapena kukonzekera moyo wachipembedzo ku seminare. Si ntchito yolimba: akuseka ndi kukopana ndi wonditsogolera wanga Elya, pamene chithunzi chodabwitsa cha Ararat chikuwonekeranso m'chizimezime. Mnyamata wazaka 24 yemwe ali m'manda a Yerablur akanakhala 40 lero. Monga momwe zilili, amuna awa sangafanane ndi tsogolo lake. Mwina ndi nthawi yoti tipitirire. Osayiwala, koma pitirirani.

MMENE MUNGAPE

Cox & Kings (020-7873 5000; coxandkings.co.uk) amapereka maulendo asanu ndi atatu ku Armenia ndi Georgia kuchokera pa £1,795 pa munthu aliyense, kutengera magawo awiri. Mtengo umaphatikizapo maulendo apandege obwerera ndi bmi, kusamutsa mausiku atatu ku Yerevan ndi mausiku asanu ku Tblisi pa B&B maziko, nkhomaliro zina, ndi maulendo opita ku Echmiadzin, Khor Virap monastery, Mtskheta ndi Davit Gareja.