Jean Paul Gaultier sakuwoneka yekha. Palibe pamwamba pa Breton, palibe kilt kapena nsapato zankhondo. Ndipo mbewu ya bleach-blond yayamba imvi tsopano. M'malo mwake, Gaultier, atavala shati yakuda ndi suti, amawoneka ngati wamkulu wamkulu wamakampani opanga zinthu za bluechip, komanso kuchotseratu malingaliro amunthu wopanga mafashoni a mad-cap Euro omwe adasewera nawo mzaka za m'ma 1980 ndi 1990.
Amavala, monga momwe alili: mutu wamtundu wapadziko lonse lapansi, nyumba ya couture ndi wosewera wamphamvu wonunkhira. Ndipamene amalankhula - ndi katchulidwe ka French kotero zimamveka ngati akuvala, ndipo ndi mphamvu zomwe zimatsutsa tsiku lake lobadwa la 60 - pamene Gaultier wa malingaliro otchuka amawululidwa.
"Ndimangoganiza kuti ndili ndi njira yamakanema yopangira," adayankha atafunsidwa chifukwa chake zida zake zambiri zakhala zofunikira kwambiri pachikhalidwe chodziwika bwino, zozindikirika ngakhale kwa iwo omwe alibe chidwi ndi mafashoni - nsonga zazifupi zankhondo zapamadzi zaku France. , masiketi a pensulo a Parisian-chic ndi ngalande, zovala za corset, bras conical ndi lingaliro la zovala zamkati-monga-zakunja, zomwe aliyense walowa m'chinenero cha mafashoni.
“Sindijambulitsa zithunzi ndikakhala paulendo koma ndimayesetsa kutengera zithunzizo, ndipo zimakhala nane kwa nthawi yayitali. Nthawi ina ndidachita chopereka cholimbikitsidwa ndi India, mwachitsanzo, ndipo zinali zaka 10 nditapita kumeneko. Ndipo zinalidi kudzera mu kanema komwe ndidapezako mafashoni. ”
Malingaliro ngati siponji akuwonetsa chifukwa chake Gaultier ndi m'modzi mwa opanga olemekezeka kwambiri m'zaka makumi angapo zapitazi, wodziwa kuphatikiza zodziwika bwino komanso zonyansa, zowoneka bwino ndi maso, zazifupi zazifupi ndi zovala zopanda ulemu, zosoka komanso zapamsewu. Komabe, iye alinso m'modzi mwa okondedwa kwambiri; ndipo sikuli kophweka kupambana kupambana pakati pa kudzikuza ndi kudzionetsera kwa dziko la mafashoni.
Kulankhula kwake molunjika kumathandiza. Mwachitsanzo, akudandaula kuti makina osindikizira amasiku ano - omwe kale anali chida chofunikira kwambiri chomwe angawonere zomwe wasonkhanitsa - ndi chida chogwiritsira ntchito ndalama zambiri. “Zonsezi ndi mbali ya malonda tsopano,” iye akutero, moipidwa. “Ngati sakonda zovala zako sanganene chifukwa ali ndi zofunika zina - kutsatsa. Ndipo ngati magulu akuluwo aitana magazini mwachindunji - monga ndikudziwira wina amatero, osatchula mayina - apanga kusintha kulikonse komwe angafunsidwe. ”
Koma Gaultier alinso ndi mbiri. CV yake ikuphimba kumasulidwa kwa nyimbo zovina; kuchititsa mndandanda wa kanema wawayilesi (Eurotrash, momwe adasinthira malingaliro ake); kapangidwe ka zovala za Pedro Almodóvar, Peter Greenaway ndi Luc Besson; seti kapangidwe - posachedwa kwambiri kwa Elton John's Gray Goose wachifundo mpira wachisanu; komanso, mpaka nyengo ino komanso zaka zisanu ndi ziwiri zapitazi, kupanga zovala zachikazi za Hermès.
Inali nthawi yokumana yomwe mosakayikira idawona kuti zinthu zamtengo wapatali zidadutsa pakugwa kwachuma. Hermès, yemwe adagula 35 peresenti ya mtundu wa Gaultier pamtengo wa $23 miliyoni (Dh84.5m) mu 1999, adagulanso 10 peresenti, ngati kuti akuzindikira izi. Tsopano pakubwera kutsegulidwa kwaposachedwa kwa The Fashion World ya Jean Paul Gaultier ku Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, chithunzithunzi chachikulu cha ntchito chomwe chidzayendera dziko lonse pazaka ziwiri zikubwerazi.
Chiwonetserochi chikutsindika kutha kwa nthawi. "Hermès zinali zabwino kwambiri, koma kuchoka ndi mwayi wabwino kwa ine kuyesa zinthu zina," akutero Gaultier, ndikupangitsa womuthandizira wake kugwedezeka pang'ono. "Chabwino, mwina osati zinthu zambiri, koma kuchita zomwe ndimachita bwino. Hermès amatanthauza kupanga zosonkhanitsira zina ziwiri, kutanthauza zisanu ndi zitatu, kuphatikiza zanga, ndipo ndili pamanja. M'malo mwake, ndine wowongolera. Koma ngakhale zowongolera zimafunikira malo. ”
Zatsopano zikuphatikiza kusonkhanitsa kwa La Perla - modabwitsa, mzere woyamba wa zovala zamkati ngati zovala zamkati za Gaultier - pomwe mtundu wa zovala zamkati ukuyembekeza kugulitsa zidutswa zopitilira 10,000 pamtengo wopitilira € 500 (Dh2,400) chilichonse.
Zimatanthawuzanso kubwerera ku mawonekedwe akale pamene, mwachitsanzo, Gaultier anakhumudwitsa kukhazikitsidwa kwa mafashoni poyesa kugwiritsa ntchito zitsanzo zakale, zazifupi kapena zochepa kuposa zowonda m'mawonetsero ake a catwalk. Mwachitsanzo, Beth Ditto, adachita chidwi mu basque yokutidwa ndi tulle pachiwonetsero chake cha prêt-à-porter mu Okutobala watha, pomwe Gaultier adasokoneza mawonekedwe omwe nthawi zambiri amawonetsedwa mu July wa July popangitsa kuti Dita von Teese achite masewera olimbitsa thupi. chomaliza.
Zowonadi, kukhudzidwa kwachipandukoku kudawonetsa chikondwerero cha Gaultier pabizinesi. Zinali zaka 40 zapitazo pomwe adapeza ntchito yake yoyamba yopanga ndi Jean Patou, watsopano pambuyo pochita ntchito yothandizira Pierre Cardin, yemwe adatenga mwana wazaka 18 wosaphunzitsidwa koma wachangu potengera zojambula zake (Gaultier adajambula mozama. pamaphunziro ake onse, nthawi zambiri amawakhomerera pamsana pake ngati njira yachilango - muyeso, akuti, womwe umangomupatsa munthu wotchuka m'bwalo lamasewera).
Mwamwayi, Gaultier posakhalitsa anazindikira kuti zenizeni za mafashoni sizinali monga momwe ankaganizira mmbuyo pamene moyo wake wonse (m'mawu ake) ndi zovala zachifalansa zaubwana wake zinayamba. Zowola zinali zitayamba kale. Amakumbukira kuti adatsekeredwa ndi woyang'anira ziphaso wa Patou ndipo adauzidwa kuti atengere masiketi otchuka amtundu wina.
Gaultier anati: “Ndinakhumudwa kwambiri. “Mugulenji kwa Patou pomwe chovalacho chilipo kale? Mfundo yake ndi yotani? Muyenera kupangira china chake, osati kungogulitsa chinthu. Ngati ndichita chilichonse ndimayesetsa kuchita mosiyana. "
Ndipo makampani opanga mafashoni ndi opanga monga kale? “Ayi,” akutero Gaultier. "Palibe masitayilo, palibe chomwe ndingatchule mafashoni. Mwina palibenso chifukwa cha mafashoni. Mwina idzabweranso chifukwa pali anthu omwe akufuna zosiyana ndi zomwe ali nazo. Koma tsopano, kuti wina andiuze kuti ndiyenera kupanga mathalauza mwanjira inayake chifukwa ndi yomwe ikugulitsa, zomwe zimachitika kwambiri pamakampani, chabwino, sindikufuna nazo. Sikuti ndikhale wopanduka koma chifukwa ndimakonda kusiyana.”
Kusiyanitsa, ngati kuli kosangalatsa kwambiri tsopano, kwatsimikizira kukhala kopambana kwa Gaultier. Zinamukakamiza, mwachitsanzo, kuti akhazikitse mzere wake wa Junior pamene lingaliro la zovala zamtengo wapatali za msika wa achinyamata lidakalipobe. Anapita patsogolo popanga mzere woyamba wa zodzoladzola kwa amuna, omwe tsopano akutsanziridwa ndi makampani akuluakulu. Ndipo mphuno yake yakunja ya Gallic yamuthandizanso bwino: zaka 15 chikhazikitsireni, fungo la amuna ake Le Male akadali ogulitsa kwambiri ku EU (kununkhira kwatsopano kwa amuna kudzakhazikitsidwa kumapeto kwa chaka chino), pomwe botolo la Classique, imodzi mwazake. mafuta onunkhira aposachedwa a akazi, amagulitsidwa penapake masekondi 15 aliwonse.
Koma mwayi wothawira kudziko lazamalonda mwina ndichifukwa chake amakhalabe wodzipereka kwambiri ku mzere wa couture womwe adaukhazikitsa mu 1997, ngakhale kuti couture inali bizinesi yomwe ikutsika pang'onopang'ono kwa zaka zambiri, ndipo Gaultier anali wokhumudwa kwambiri panthawi yomwe Paris yokha inali ndi nyumba 30 zolembedwa ntchito anthu oposa 2,000. Ndi gawo la bizinesi yake yomwe, amavomereza, kuti sapanga ndalama, koma zomwe, akuwonjezera, samatumizanso kutayika. Munthawi izi zokhala ndi malingaliro apansi - kale, monga akunenera, "magulu akuluakulu a mafashoni adadza kulamulira zinthu" - izi sizingakhale zokwanira. Koma odziyimira pawokha monga Gaultier alili, makasitomala ake 100 okhazikika, omwe mwina amangogula madiresi amodzi kapena awiri pa € 100,000 iliyonse, amamukwanira.
“Mwina zimathandizira kugulitsa mafuta onunkhiritsa,” akutero, ngakhale ngati kuli kothekera kuti malonda ake onunkhiritsa amamlola kupitiriza ndi couture. “Koma monga momwe anthu ena amagulira nyumba ndi ndalama zawo, kapena kaboti kakang’ono, ndimapanga couture chifukwa ndi zimene ndakhala ndikulakalaka kuchita kuyambira ndili mwana. Couture iyenera kupitilira, mwina mwanjira ina, koma ndi labotale yofunikira. Ndizosangalatsa ndikapeza lingaliro. Ndipo pamene sinditero zimakhala ngati - urrgghh.
"Ndipo ndizowona kuti sindimazindikira madiresi a anthu ena achikulire, okulirapo, atawapanga pachovala chamannequin," akuwonjezera, akuvutika kuti asaseke kuseka kwake komweko. "Koma masiku ano makasitomala ambiri a couture ndi achichepere komanso ochepa kwambiri. Iwo mwachiwonekere samadya kwambiri ndipo amapita ku masewero olimbitsa thupi kwambiri. Koma sindisamala mwanjira iliyonse. Osachepera ndi couture mumadziwa kuti mukapangira mkazi chovala amavala. Simunganene zimenezo ponena za dziko la mafashoni masiku ano. Kunja kuli zovala zambiri kuposa anthu oti azivala.”
Zachidziwikire, Gaultier nayenso wachita njira ina kuti izi zitheke. Iye wakhala akusoka zovala kuyambira pomwe anali atasowa ma napu. Kodi Madonna akudziwa kuti kamisolo kake kowoneka bwino kanapangidwa koyamba ndi mapepala ndi zikhomo zotetezera - za chimbalangondo?
"Ah Nana," Gaultier akufuula, ngati kuti akukumbukira nyumba yake yosungiramo zinthu zakale, yomwe amamutcha "punkish ndithu".
"Inde, kunali konyansa pang'ono kwa teddy bear, kwenikweni. Ndipo, ayi, sindikuganiza kuti [Madonna] akudziwa zimenezo. "
ZOMWE MUNGACHITE PA NKHANIYI:
- That sponge-like mind hints at why Gaultier is one of the most creatively respected designers of the past few decades, skilled in blending the conventional and the outrageous, the androgynous with the macho, the high-brow with the irreverent, tailoring and streetwear.
- Now comes the recent opening of The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, a major career overview that will tour the world over the next two years.
- Rather, Gaultier, dressed demurely in black shirt and suit, looks more the chief executive of some creative industry bluechip company, and less the living stereotype of the mad-cap Euro fashion designer he toyed with during the 1980s and 1990s.
