Kupanga Dziko Lapansi Kukhala Lokongola: Munthu Mmodzi Wovala Moyenera Nthawi

Amuna. Kuyang'ana Bwino Mukamayenda

Malo ambiri amadzaza ndi malingaliro amomwe mungakonzere misewu yamizinda, kukonzanso malo athu okhala, kutsitsa makabati athu ndi makabati, ndi momwe mungakonzeretsenso - chilichonse. Komabe, palibe malo okwanira kapena nthawi yokwanira yopanga dziko lapansi kukhala lokongola kwambiri, polimbikitsa mawonekedwe azinthu zomwe zimalamulira dziko lapansi… amuna!

Malinga ndi ziwerengero zapadziko lonse lapansi, pali amuna ambiri kuposa akazi padziko lapansi masiku ano. Chiyerekezo cha UN (2017) pali amuna pafupifupi 3,776,294,273 (3.77 biliyoni), poyerekeza pafupifupi 3,710,295,643 (3.71 biliyoni), azimayi. Akuti anyamata 107 amabadwira atsikana 100 aliwonse obadwa (National Academy of Science, 2015). Chifukwa pali ambiri mwa iwo ndiye "ife" - ndiudindo wawo ndiudindo wawo kupanga dziko lapansi kukhala lokongola kwambiri!

Kuwonekera kwa Zovala

Nkhani yabwino ndiyakuti amuna akuzindikira mawonekedwe awo ndipo chifukwa cha zoulutsira mawu ndi kusintha kwa "mavalidwe," anyamatawa akuyika nthawi ndi khama kuti awoneke bwino. Ngakhale sindinadziwonere ndekha, kafukufukuyu apeza kuti amuna akuyesetsa kukonza mawonekedwe awo ndipo anyamatawo akuwerenga magazini, amayendera masamba awebusayiti, akuwonera media, komanso ali ndi chidwi ndi zovala zomwe avala.

Chidwi chatsopanochi chikuwonetsedwa ndi kukula kwa 14% m'makampani omwe akuyembekezeka kufikira $ 33 biliyoni pofika 2020; M'malo mwake, zovala za amuna zikukula mwachangu kuposa zachikazi komanso msika wapamwamba.

Amuna akuwonetsa chidwi ndi mitundu, mitundu, kusakanikirana ndi ukadaulo, mpesa ndi zachikhalidwe, ndikugwiritsa ntchito mwayi wopanga womwe ulipo mosasamala zaka, ndalama kapena ntchito.

Tithokoze Makampani

Zowona kuti opanga zovala zamamuna akupereka mizere yazovala zomwe zimafikirika, zosangalatsa komanso zabwino zimalola amuna kuvomereza mosamala lingaliro loti kukhala "wamafashoni" ndi lingaliro labwino. Popeza sakutsekeredwa munjira inayake ndipo "amaloledwa" kuti apange tanthauzo lawo loti "ovala bwino," pakhoza kukhala munthu wokongola kumapeto kwaulendo wotsatsa.

Amuna ndi Malo Otsitsira

Yendetsani malo ogulitsira aliwonse, misika yayikulu kapena msewu wogulitsa ndipo zikuwonekeratu kuti kuchuluka kwa malo apansi, kuchuluka kwa mashopu, ndi kuchuluka kwa zinthu zomwe zikugulitsidwa kwa ogulitsa zovala zachimuna ndizochepa, poyerekeza ndi ogula azimayi. Kusiyana komwe kulipo kumachitika chifukwa chakuti azimayi, m'mbiri, amakhala nthawi yambiri akugula; komabe, izi zikusintha.

Kafukufuku akusonyeza kuti 17 peresenti yokha ya amuna pakufufuza kwadziko amasangalaladi kugula; komabe, 29 peresenti "adagwirizana pang'ono" kugula, ndipo 37 peresenti adagwirizana kuti adzagula mafashoni. Pofuna kuthana ndi kusintha kwa malingaliro, pakufunika kwa ogulitsa okonda mafashoni kuti azikhala pafupi nthawi zonse ndi chidwi chokhudzidwa ndi amuna pamitundu, masitayilo ndi mawonekedwe. Pachikhalidwe, zovala za abambo zasintha pang'onopang'ono kusiyana ndi zovala za akazi koma izi zikusintha chifukwa machitidwe azikhalidwe za amuna amakhala opanikizika.

Zisankho

Onse ogula amuna ndi akazi amasankha zomwe angagule potengera zomwe amalandira kuchokera kwa anthu omwe amawalemekeza, kuphatikiza amayi, alongo, abale, abambo, ogwira nawo ntchito komanso magulu omwe ali, kapena omwe akufuna. Kafukufuku akuwonetsa kuti magwero azidziwitso mwa anthu (mwachitsanzo, okwatirana kapena anzawo) amagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga chisankho chogula chinthu chowonekera komanso chowopsa pachiwopsezo cha anthu, monga suti. Ogwiritsa ntchito amuna anali oti amafunsa zambiri kuchokera kwa anzawo kuposa omwe sankafanana nawo kwenikweni.

Zina mwazidziwitso zazogulitsa zimaphatikizira zomwe sizili zaumwini zomwe zimaperekedwa kutsatsa, kuwonetsa sitolo ndi kulumikizana kwa ogulitsa. Ogwiritsa ntchito achichepere amadalira kwambiri pazambiri zawo kuposa amuna achikulire ogula. Amuna ogula achikulire omwe amagula pafupipafupi zovala amakonda kugwiritsa ntchito njira zotsatsira pafupipafupi kuposa ogula amuna achikulire omwe amagula pafupipafupi.

Kugulitsa Kwapaintaneti Kukuwonjezeka

Pakati pa kotala yoyamba ya 2013 ndi 2016, ogulitsa 10 apamwamba kwambiri azovala zamamuna (kuphatikiza Barneys, Saks ndi Harrods) adakula 100% pa intaneti. Ogulitsa 10 akulu, (kuphatikiza Brooks Brothers, Tommy Hilfiger ndi Ted Baker), adakula 268%.

Reuters ipeza kuti zovala zapamsewu ndi zina zosinthira zikuyendetsa malonda azovala za amuna, kuchokera ku bajeti kupita kumtunda; Mwachitsanzo, zopereka zoyambilira zopangidwa ndi wopanga Virgil Abloh wazovala za Louis Vuitton ndi nsapato za Dior ndi Sacai.

Makampani azovala nsapato amuna azikhala okwera $ 460 biliyoni pofika 2020, kasanu ndi kawiri bajeti ya NASA. Chikhalidwe cha sneaker, kuphatikiza kuvala momasuka ndi luso laukadaulo zasintha zovala zamamuna, mwina kwamuyaya. Amuna ozindikira mafashoni / masitayelo sayenera kuwonetsa kukoma kwawo ndi masokosi monga momwe zovala zazitali zimatchulira mipata yambiri posankha zochita zikugwirizana ndi moyo wawo wogwira ntchito.

Kufikira Mnyamata

Ogula ambiri apano akupeza zopangidwa ndi zinthu chifukwa cha zoulutsira mawu; komabe, zopangidwa ndi zovala zamunthu zachedwa kuzindikira njirayi. Sanatumize zopezeka pa Instagram (pomwe 24% ya amuna aku America ali okangalika), ngakhale Hugo Boss ndi Supreme amadziwika kuti ali ndi "zitsanzo" za Instagram pomwe Brioni ndi Dunhill amadziwika kuti ndi "otsalira."

Kusunthira kupitilira Instagram, Facebook ndi YouTube - zovala zamamuna ziyenera kuwonedwa kuti? Malangizo ndi awa: Reddit (ogwiritsa ntchito ndi amuna kwambiri ndipo tsambalo limakhala ndimaforamu ambiri okhudzana ndi mafashoni). Ngakhale Otsogolera akutaya mphamvu zawo, amakhalabe ndi chidwi monga anthu otchuka, othamanga, komanso oyimba. Ndikofunikira kudziwa kuti abambo sangayankhe kuchotsera ndi malonda apadera ndipo ali ndi chidwi chambiri pazokambirana ndi malingaliro apakamwa.

Ku Markt @ Javits

Kwa ogula ndi ogulitsa zovala zamamuna, Javits Show yofunika kwambiri ndi Mrket, yemwe amadziwika kuti ndiimodzi mwamawonekedwe apamwamba kwambiri a "zovala zamamuna ozindikira," komanso "chiwonetsero chokha ku US chowunikira ... magawo apadziko lonse lapansi, kuphatikiza Made ku Italy, ndi Brits ku New York.

Pulojekitiyi imayang'ana pa zovala zam'manja zamasiku ano ndipo ndichopangidwa mwapadera kwambiri kwa ma denim a premium, ndi zopanga zojambula. Chiwonetserochi ndi mwayi wabwino kwa ogulitsa kuti agulitse ndikusinthira zovala zawo zamwamuna - pamalo amodzi.

Unali ulendo wosangalatsa kupita kudziko lokongola la zovala zam'manja zamasiku ano ndipo zidandipangitsa kuti ndiziyembekeza kuwona zokongola m'misewu ya New York, pabwalo la ndege lapanyumba komanso lapadziko lonse lapansi, ndikuwonanso bwino mabasi ndi misewu yapansi panthaka ku Manhattan.

Zosankha Zosankhidwa za Global Guy In-transit

Mgwirizano waku France

Yoyambitsidwa mu 1972 ku UK ndi a Mark Marks cholinga cha French Connection ndi: "Kupanga zovala zapamwamba zokongola zomwe zikupezeka pamsika waukulu." Mutha kukumbukira mtunduwo chifukwa cha kampeni yakusindikiza ndi kusonkhanitsa ya "FCUK fashion" ya 1990, yomwe ingayambitsidwenso kudzera mu Urban Outfitters. Momwe ndimayang'anitsitsa pamsonkhanowu ndidazindikira kuti zingakhale zosavuta kuti mnyamata (wazaka zilizonse) apange zovala zokwanira pomvera kwambiri chovala cha French Connection.

Barbour

J. Barbour & Sons Ltd. idayamba mu 1894 ndi a John Barbouin omwe anali odzipereka pantchito zapamwamba zaku Britain komanso moyo wawo. Lero, bizinesi yabanja lachisanu ikutsalira ku Simonside, South Shields, UK. Kampaniyo imapanga ndikugulitsa nsalu zakunja za thonje, zokonzeka kuvala, nsapato ndi zowonjezera amuna, akazi, ana ndi agalu. Zovalazi zikuwonetsa mikhalidwe yapadera yakumidzi yaku Britain yomwe imabweretsa nzeru, kukongola ndi kukongola kwa zovala zomwe sizongokhala zapamwamba komanso zimagwira ntchito.

Nico Zappiello

Nthawi zonse ndimawona nsapato poyamba ndikatulutsa mnyamata m'basi kapena munjira yapansi panthaka. Ngati nsapatozo ndi zotsika mtengo, zikufuna kuwala kapena zikufunika kwambiri kapena kukonzedwa, palibe chifukwa choyang'aniranso kwina. Nsapato za Nico Zappiello ndizabwino, ndipo ngati mnyamatayo ali ndi nzeru zakuziyika pamapazi ake, ndiye ndikufuna kuyambitsa zokambirana. Potengera zaluso zakale, kampaniyi ikuphatikiza kalembedwe, chitonthozo ndi kukongola.

Nsapato zambiri zimapangidwa pogwiritsa ntchito njira ya Blake Rapid Construction, kulola kuti pakhale nsapato ziwiri zapansi zokhala ndi "kupuma" komwe kumabweretsa nsapato zowala, zowoneka bwino. Kutolera 8 mpaka 8 kumagwiritsa ntchito Bologna Construction (sacchetto) yomwe imalimbikitsidwa ndi ma moccasins ochokera ku North America. Zolembazo zimamangirizidwa pachidutswa chimodzi, ndikupanga sock yachikopa kuzungulira phazi, ndikupanga malo oti phazi likhale losavuta komanso losavuta.

John Smedley

Kampani ya John Smedley idayamba ku UK (Derbyshire) mu 1784 ndipo ndi bizinesi yakale kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi. M'mbuyomu, kampaniyo imadziwika kuti ndiyomwe adayambitsa "Long Johns," yopangidwa pa makina oyamba opangidwa mwaluso.

M'zaka za m'ma 1950 mpaka 60, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn ndi a Beatles adakopeka ndi ma 1980 ndipo adalandiridwa ndi opanga aku Britain Dame Vivienne Westwood ndi Sir Paul Smith. Mu 2012 kampaniyo idapatsidwa Royal Warant of Appoosition ngati "Wopanga Zabwino Zovala" ndi Her Majness Queen Elizabeth II.

Bungweli limagwiritsa ntchito thonje la ku Island Island, ubweya wabwino kwambiri wa Merino, cashmere ndi silika. "Mainline Collection" imaphatikizaponso malaya a polo (osasintha kuyambira 1932) kudzera mu mzere wake waposachedwa "Singular" womwe umadutsa mibadwo.

Naadam

Naadam amapanga thukuta la cashmere ndipo ndiokongola modabwitsa ndipo amapezeka m'mitundu yambiri kotero kuti ndikosavuta kuvala juzi losiyanasiyana tsiku lililonse kwa mwezi umodzi. Cashmere ndiyabwino komanso yapamwamba, yofewa komanso yolimba ndipo imakhala yofewa nthawi yayitali.

Malinga ndi Naadam, mbuzi zabwino kwambiri za Cashmere zimabadwa ndikuleredwa ku Mongolia. Ubweya wama swetawa umachokera ku mbuzi yoyera ya Zalaa Jinst, mtundu wokhawo wa mbuzi za cashmere ku Mongolia ndipo umapezeka ku Gobi Deseret (mamailo 400 kuchokera ku mseu wapafupi ndi Mongolia).

Mbuzi za Cashmere zimakula bwino m'malo ozizira kwambiri komanso ovuta. Kuti akhale ndi moyo, amakula ulusi wabwino kwambiri kuti adziteteze. Abusa a Naadam amalumikizana ndi ulusi chifukwa kumeta mbuzi kumakhala kovuta kwa mbuzi. Pafupifupi ndalama zonse zochokera ku Mongolia ndizachilengedwe, koma sikuti cashmere yonse ndiyokhazikika pazachilengedwe. Thumba la Naadam Gobi Revival Fund limathandizira mabanja 1000 osamukasamuka ku Mongolia ndipo amapereka chisamaliro chanyama kwa mbuzi zopitilira 250,000.

Ngakhale cashmere sayenera kuikidwa mu makina ochapira, itha kutsukidwa m'manja pogwiritsa ntchito shampu ya ana.

Wachinyamata

Chovala chovalachi ku Italy chimatchedwa tawuni yaying'ono ku Brittany, France, komwe mitundu ya gombe lake imawonetsa mphamvu ya Nyanja ya Atlantic. Ploumanac'h ili ku Arenzano, tawuni yomwe ili m'mphepete mwa nyanja ku Italy ndipo zovala zimapangidwa utoto pogwiritsa ntchito njira yatsopano yopulumutsa madzi ndikupewa kugwiritsa ntchito kutentha. Chizindikirocho ndichodabwitsa kwambiri ndipo malaya ambiri amakhala m'zovala za munthu aliyense.

Vestrucci

Vestrucci amadziwika kuti ndi imodzi mwanyumba zazikulu kwambiri zopangira zovala ku Florence ndipo Sartoria Vestrucci akukhala telala wosankha "wosewera pa jet-got-trotting playboy" yemwe "amakhala wokongola kwambiri m'chipindacho."

Malinga ndi tsamba lawebusayiti, ndikumanga kwa Vestrucci komwe kumalumikiza "zaluso zaluso ndi kukomoka kwaukadaulo" ndipo zimapangitsa chizindikirocho kukhala chosiyana kwambiri. Zomwe ndikudziwa ndikuti, nditayenda kwa maola ambiri m'malo ambiri ndikuwonetsa zovala zokongola za amuna, ndimayenera kuyima ku Vestrucci, kuyandikira pafupi ndi ma jekete ndi matayi, ndikujambula chithunzi chithunzithunzi cha zovala zokongola izi . Tsopano chomwe ndikufunikira ndi munthu yemwe wavala Vestrucci… mtundu wa anthu omwe alibe chidwi chongotengeka koma amangofuna kuti mudziwe kuti ndiwanzeru kwambiri kuti adziwe kuvala bwino.

Sock kwa Ine

Kampaniyo, yomwe ili ku Portland, Oregon, idayamba msika wakunja mu 2004. Lero, kampaniyo imagwira anthu 40+, ndikupanga zopanga zoyambirira zoposa 400 ndipo imagwira ntchito ndi maakaunti opitilira 4000 kuphatikiza malo ogulitsira pa intaneti. Ndikamaliza kutambasula nsapato, ndimayang'ana masokosi. Ngati mnyamatayo ali wolimba mtima komanso wowoneka bwino kuti avale masokosi okongola / apadera… Ndikudziwa kuti azitha kulumikiza mawu pang'ono kuti apange chiganizo.

Zachidziwikire

Ndikukhulupirira kuti chiwonetsero chabwino kwambiri cha zovala zamunthu pawonetsero ya Mrket ndi chisonyezo chabwino cha mayendedwe atsopano a mafashoni a amuna; maubwino adzapeza tonsefe!

Kuti mudziwe zambiri, Dinani apa.

© Dr. Elinor Garely. Nkhani yakulemba, kuphatikiza zithunzi, sizingatengeredwe popanda chilolezo cholemba kuchokera kwa wolemba.