Kodi chilumba chakutali chomwe ndi chachikulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi chingatiphunzitse chiyani pakusintha kwanyengo?

M'mawa wadzuwa ku South Greenland logo pa malaya a Ib Laursen mosayembekezereka idanena zonse. Mzere wosavuta ukuwonetsa phiri lodziwika bwino lomwe likukwera kuseri kwa mudzi wa Narsaq, malo otsetsereka a chipale chofewa omwe adafotokozedwa mu ulusi. Ndili m'munda wamaluwa akuthengo ndidacheza ndi a Laursen, dipatimenti yowona za munthu m'modzi ku Narsaq, za momwe kutentha kwadziko kumakhudzira dera lake. Kenako ndinazindikira kuti phiri lomwelo linakwera kumbuyo kwake.

Munali mu Julayi ndipo pa phiri lenileni malo osungira chipale chofewa anali atasungunuka.

Nthawi zambiri zimawulutsidwa mu ziwerengero ndi ziwonetsero, nkhani yakusintha kwanyengo nthawi zambiri simakhala yowoneka bwino. Ndipo ngakhale kuti ndilinso ndi zowonera za matanthwe otsetsereka ndi madzi oundana otsetsereka, ndinabwera makamaka ku Greenland kudzawona ngati kungakhale siteshoni yowonera momwe kutentha kwa dziko lapansi kukukhudzira thanzi la dziko lapansi.

Zowonadi, dziko la Greenland siliri pachimake pa kusintha kwa nyengo, kusinthika kwake kwakuthupi kumamveka ngakhale kwa mlendo wamba. Kukongola kochititsa chidwi, kosaiŵalika kwa chisumbu chimenechi—chachikulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi—kukakamiza mlendo kuona tsogolo la pulanetili nthaŵi zonse, ndiponso m’njira zosayembekezereka.
Kwa ife omwe tawonapo bulangeti lalikulu la ayezi la Greenland kuchokera pampando wazenera wa ndege pamtunda wa 36,000, pobwerera kwathu kuchokera ku Europe, ndizovuta kukana chisangalalo chotsika ndege ndikulumikizana ndi imodzi mwamalo akutali kwambiri padziko lapansi. malo. Koma tisanatsike sindinkadziwa kuti ndiyenera kuyembekezera chiyani—kodi anthu anasangalala bwanji m’malo amene ndinkangoganiza kuti kunali mdima wandiweyani?

Palibe misewu yolumikiza tawuni ina ndi ina—malo otalikirapo a phula ndi makilomita asanu ndi awiri. Malo okhala m'mphepete mwa gombe lakumwera chakumadzulo amalumikizidwa ndi mabwato kawiri pamlungu omwe amagwira ntchito nthawi yachilimwe, pomwe madoko alibe ayezi. Kupanda kutero, munthu amawuluka kuchokera kutawuni kupita kutawuni, nthawi zambiri kudzera pa ndege ya Air Greenland yomwe ikukonzekera. Koma ubwino wa moyo ungauzidwe m’njira zina.

“Greenland ndi dziko lolemera kwambiri,” anatero Aasi Chemnitz Narup, meya wa likulu la Greenland, Nuuk (wotchedwa Godthåb). Tili ndi nyama zakutchire zambiri, madzi aukhondo ndiponso mpweya wabwino, zomwe ndi zofunika kwambiri pa moyo. Ndipo tili ndi mchere: golide, ruby, diamondi, zinki. " Osatchulanso malo osungira mafuta ku Baffin Bay. Kuphatikiza, angathandize Greenland kupeza ufulu wodzilamulira kuchokera ku Denmark tsiku lina, dziko lomwe lakhala chigawo chodzilamulira kwa zaka pafupifupi mazana atatu.

Koma kutentha kwa dziko kukusokoneza chithunzicho. Madzi ofunda amatanthauza kuti shrimp yomwe idadzaza m'mphepete mwa nyanja ya South Greenland yasamukira kumpoto, kukakamiza anthu asodzi kuti akapeze nsomba m'madzi akuya. Zowona, nyengo yotentha yotalikirapo yalola ulimi ndi zoweta kuyambika kum’mwera—zonse ziŵiri zimachirikizidwa kwambiri. Koma chakumpoto, nyanja zimene poyamba zinkawoneka ngati zikuundana m’nyengo yozizira iliyonse, sizikhalanso zodalirika, kutanthauza kuti kusaka nyama—zimbalangondo za polar, walrus, seal—n’kosadalirika.

Makampani opanga zokopa alendo omwe akukula akuyenda bwino ndi zombo zapamadzi, akudzitamandira maulendo 35 m'chilimwe cha 2008, kuwirikiza kawiri maulendo a chaka chatha. Sitampu ya pasipoti yaku Greenland ikupezeka pakati pa gulu lomwe lachitikapo: Chaka chatha Bill Gates adabwera kudzasewera pa heli-skiing, ndipo a Google Sergey Brin ndi Larry Page adapita kukasambira.

Nyumba zamatabwa za Qaqortoq ((Julianehåb). Chithunzi ndi Jens Buurgaard Nielsen.

Masiku aŵiri mu Nuuk, likulu la Greenland ndi tauni imene ndege yanga inatera, anali okwanira kufufuza malowo, kuphatikizapo kuyenda paboti kumtunda woyandikana nawo, wothiridwa ndi madzi oundana. Mwachionekere ulendo wapamadziwo unali ulendo wowonera anamgumi koma zimphona zija zinali zosaoneka bwino tinkakhutira ndi kukongola kwa kanyumba kakang’ono kotchedwa Qoornoq, komwe kumakhala m’chilimwe chokha, tinkachita chidwi kwambiri ndi masana adzuŵa titathyola maluwa akutchire pamalo otsetsereka. madzi oundana. Tidatseka tsikulo ndikudya chakudya chokoma ku Nipisa, malo odyera omwe amasuta fodya, bowa risotto, ng'ombe ya musk, ndi zipatso zokhala ndi mkaka wothira, tikuyenda kubwerera ku hotelo pakati pausiku osafunikira tochi kapena katundu wambiri. Limodzi mwa malikulu ang'onoang'ono padziko lonse lapansi - anthu 16,000 - Nuuk ndiyofupikitsa pachisangalalo cha zomangamanga koma ili ndi zokometsera zambiri, kuphatikiza malo osambira amkati okhala ndi galasi kutsogolo moyang'ana doko.

Koma kunali South Greenland, ulendo wa pandege wa mphindi 75 kuchokera ku Nuuk, kumene ndinakonda kwambiri nyanja ya kumpoto. Narsarsuaq, bwalo la ndege lapadziko lonse lapansi komanso kukhazikika kwa anthu pafupifupi 100, ndiye malo odumphira m'midzi yomwe ili m'mphepete mwa nyanja kumwera, dera lomwe lili pamtunda womwewo ndi Helsinki ndi Anchorage. Mabwinja azaka chikwi a ku Norse ali m’mphepete mwa nyanja, makamaka ku Brattahlío, kumene Eric the Red anakhazikika koyamba ndi kumene mwana wake Leif Eriksson ananyamuka kukafufuza North America, zaka mazana asanu patsogolo pa Columbus. Brattahlío inakhazikitsidwanso m'ma 1920 ndi mlimi Otto Fredriksen monga Qassiarsuk, ndipo ulimi wa nkhosa unakhazikitsidwanso bwino.

Alendo amasiku ano amatha kuwona tchalitchi chomangidwanso ndi nyumba yayitali yokhala ndi turf, zonse zomangidwa m'zaka za zana la 10. Pofotokoza za kukhazikika kwa Nordic garb, Edda Lyberth adatumikira chakudya chamasana cha Inuit cha zisindikizo zouma, cod ndi whale, mphoyo zophika, zisa ndi ma currants atsopano akuda.

Ndidapeza chisindikizo, makamaka chovuta kumimba, komabe chimakhalabe chakudya chambiri cha ambiri.

Pamphepete mwa mtsinjewo pali Qaqortoq, nyumba zake zamatabwa zomwe zili pamwamba pa mapiri omwe amapanga utawaleza wopota mozungulira doko lokongola.

Iyi ndi tawuni yayikulu kwambiri ku South Greenland, anthu 3,500, komanso doko lake lalikulu lopanda madzi oundana m'nyengo yozizira. Zombo zonyamula katundu kawiri pa sabata zimapangitsa Qaqortoq kukhala malo otumizira madera. Kutumiza kunja koyambirira: ma prawn owumitsidwa. Zomangamanga zingapo zokongola za Qaqortoq zidayamba m'ma 1930s, nthawi yomwe Charles Lindbergh adadutsamo akufufuza malo oti adzayimitsenso mafuta ku Pan Am. Chodabwitsa n'chakuti, tauni yamapiriyi ikusowabe bwalo la ndege - imafikiridwa ndi ndege yosangalatsa, yotsika kwambiri ya mphindi 20 kuchokera ku Narsarsuaq (cue Wagner's "Ride of the Valkyries," chonde), kapena ulendo wa maola anayi m'chilimwe.

Zosankha zogona ku South Greenland zimangokhala m'modzi kapena awiri pa tawuni iliyonse, ndipo ndizofunikira, koma zokwanira kwa apaulendo akudziko. Malo odyera amagulitsa zakudya zaku Denmark; Modabwitsa, mphalapala zokoma ndi ng'ombe za musk nthawi zambiri zimakhala pa menyu, ndipo nthawi zina nyama ya namgumi (yowonda kwambiri kuposa momwe ndimayembekezera, komanso yolemera). Kuti akwaniritse zofuna zatsopano zokopa alendo, boma likuchitapo kanthu ndi sukulu yochereza alendo ku Narsaq, komwe opezekapo angaphunzire ngati ophika, ophika buledi, ophika nyama, operekera zakudya komanso olandirira mahotelo akutsogolo.

Nyengo inali yabwino kwambiri paulendo wanga—miyamba yoyera ya buluu, yofunda mokwanira kukwera m’kabudula—kulola kusinthasintha kwakukulu ndi kupenya kwanga. Ndikosavuta kulowa nawo ulendo watsiku ndi bwato kuchokera ku Qaqortoq kupita ku Upernaviarsuk, malo ofufuza zaulimi okwana maekala awiri ndi theka komwe mbewu yachilimwe imakhala ndi masamba, mizu ndi masamba a cruciferous. Tikupitirirabe ku Einars Fjord tinafika ku Igaliku, mudzi umene otsalira a mudzi wa Norse azunguliridwa ndi tinyumba tambiri tachimwemwe. Tidafika pafupi ndi mabwinja a Hvalsey, malo omwe Greenlanders akufuna kuti akhale ndi UNESCO. Makoma amwala a tchalitchi chake kuyambira zaka za m'ma 1100 ndi osalimba.

Ndisanachoke ku Greenland ndinakumana ndi mtsikana wakale wachifalansa wachifalansa Jacky Simoud. Wokhalapo kuyambira 1976, ndiye wochita malonda ku Narsarsuaq, yemwe amayendetsa malo odyera mtawuniyi, hostel ndi kampani yopanga zovala, zonse zotchedwa Blue Ice. Amapanganso maulendo abwato kupita ku Qooroq Fjord yapafupi, komwe madzi oundana amathira madzi oundana okwana matani 200,000 patsiku.

“Ndi imodzi mwa tinthu tating’onoting’ono,” anatero Simoud, akuyendetsa ngalawa yake yokhotakhota kudutsa m’mphepete mwa madzi oundana a madzi oundana kupita kumunsi kwa madzi oundana. “Chinthu chachikulu kwambiri chomwe chimatulutsa matani 20 miliyoni [a ayezi] patsiku.” Atayendetsa galimoto moyandikira momwe madzi oundana angalolere, Simoud anatseka injiniyo ndipo mmodzi wa antchito ake anatsanulira martinis pamadzi oundana atsopano a madzi oundana. Mosapeŵeka, mkati mwa bata lotheratu, zokambiranazo zidasinthiratu ku kutentha kwa dziko.

Simoud anafotokoza kuti: “Nyengo yabwino imakhala yozizira kwambiri. "Kumwamba kuli bwino, chipale chofewa ndi cholimba ndipo timatha kuyenda mozungulira fjord ndi chipale chofewa kapena galimoto. Koma nyengo zinayi zomalizira mwa zisanu zakhala zofunda. Kapena kusinthana kutentha ndi kuzizira.”

Pamwamba pa mtsinjewo, madzi oundanawo ankaoneka pakati pa mapiri ngati bulangete lopanda kanthu la chifunga pamene mapiri otizingawo ankakwinya ndi kuswa dzuwa. Ngakhale zinali zovuta kwambiri, ulendo wokacheza ku Greenland unali wovuta kwambiri wopita kumphambano zam'mbuyo za dziko lathu lapansili ndi tsogolo lake.
Sindingathe kuyankhula m'nyengo yozizira. Koma ndikhoza kunena kuti chilimwe chabwino ndi chilimwe cha Greenland.

Ngati Mupita

Greenland ili ndi ma eyapoti atatu apadziko lonse lapansi. Kuphatikiza pa Nuuk ndi Narsarsuaq, pali Kangerlussuaq, yomwe ili pakati pa Nuuk ndi Ilulissat (malo olowera ku Disko Bay, malo akuluakulu oyendera alendo okhala ndi madzi oundana, mapiri otsetsereka komanso kutsetsereka kwa galu). Air Greenland imawulukira kangapo pa sabata kupita ku eyapoti kuchokera ku Copenhagen, chaka chonse. M'chilimwe, pali maulendo apandege ochokera ku Iceland kupita ku Nuuk ndi malo ena ku Icelandair ndi Air Iceland. Ikupezeka kumapeto kwa Meyi mpaka koyambirira kwa Seputembala, maulendo aku Iceland ndi otsika mtengo kuposa kuwuluka kudzera ku Copenhagen, ndikupulumutsa pafupifupi maola 12 paulendo wochokera ku US.

Alendo a m'chilimwe amatha kukwera maulendo, kayaking ndi fjord cruises; Usodzi wa trout ndi salimoni akuti ndiwopambana. M'nyengo yozizira, galu-sledding, snowmobiling ndi skiing pamwamba pa mndandanda wa zochitika, nthawi zambiri amakhala motsatira kumbuyo kwa nyali zakumpoto. Ambiri ogwira ntchito zokopa alendo, monga Scantours, amanyamula hotelo ndi ndege koma amagulitsa maulendo amasiku onse ndi la carte kutengera nyengo. Ulendo wamasiku asanu ndi atatu wa Scantours wopita ku Narsarsuaq ndi Narsaq ndi wamtengo wa $2,972 kuphatikiza mpweya wochokera ku Iceland, kapena $3,768 kuchokera ku Copenhagen. Kampani ya Jacky Simoud yolumikizidwa bwino ya Blue Ice ndi yaluso pakusonkhanitsa alendo ndi phukusi kuchokera komwe amakhala ku Narsarsuaq.

Chifukwa cha kukwera mtengo kwa ulendo wopita ku tauni ndi tawuni ku Greenland—ochuluka a iwo amangofikiridwa ndi helikoputala kapena mabwato—zombo zapamadzi zingakhale njira yabwino kwambiri yoyendera. Kampani yayikulu yopereka maulendo ku Greenland ndi Hurtigruten. Maulendo amasiku asanu ndi atatu a chilimwe cha 2010 amayambira pa $4500 ngati atasungitsidwa pofika Seputembara 30.

David Swanson ndi Mkonzi Wothandizira ku National Geographic Traveler ndipo amalemba gawo la "Affordable Caribbean" m'magazini ya Caribbean Travel & Life.