Ozembetsa, $67 llama amakopa alendo ku Nyanja ya Titicaca

Pamene ndinkagula mtunda wa mamita 12,500 pamwamba pa nyanja kumsika wina wapafupi ndi Nyanja ya Titicaca, ndinapeza kuti ndingagule llama pafupifupi $67, ndowe ya ng’ombe masenti 60 ndipo mphaka ndi masenti 30.

Ziweto zosamvetseka ndi ndowe sizomwe zimafuna kudziwa zambiri zomwe munthu amakumana nazo kuno. Anthu a mtundu wa Uro ku Peru akhala pamwamba pa nyanja ya Titicaca kuyambira kalekale chiyambi cha chitukuko cha Incan chisanayambe zaka zikwi zambiri zapitazo. Ndipo izo ziri kwenikweni pamwamba pa nyanja.

Anthu a m’derali amamanga zilumba za bango kumene amamangapo nyumba za bango komanso kumene amadutsamo kudzera pa mabwato okongola a bango. Amasodza, amasonkhanitsa masamba oyandama odyedwa ndikugwira kapena kuwombera mbalame kuti adye. Uwu ndiwo moyo wawo, ngakhale achinyamata akuyamba kusamukira kugombe ndi kupitirira.

Mwina achinyamata akufunafuna bata. Ndinapeza kuyenda pazisumbu zazing’ono, zowirira za bango kunali kovuta, makamaka popanda chotchinga chokulepheretsani kutsetsereka m’madzi oundana. Ngakhale kuti anthu a pachilumbachi nthaŵi zonse amaloŵa m’malo mwa mabango pamwamba pake, ana adziwika kuti amagwa mabango amene amakhala pansi pa chisumbucho awola. Mitengo ikuluikulu ya bulugamu imakhazikika pachilumbachi m'munsi mwa nyanjayi.

Tsiku lina m’nyengo yozizira kwambiri mu July, mwamuna wina wa ku Uro ndi mwana wake anatitenga ine ndi mwamuna wanga padoko la m’mphepete mwa Hotel Titlaka moyang’anizana ndi Bay of Puno, kumene tinakhala. Miyamba ndi madzi zinali zabuluu kwambiri, ndipo mapiri okutidwa ndi chipale chofeŵa a ku Bolivia ananyezimira chapatali pamene tinayandama kuchoka ku nyumba yathu ya m’mphepete mwa nyanja ya Hamptons yokulirapo kupita ku dziko la zisumbu za bango, pamwamba pake ndi nyumba za bango zimene zimawoneka zosalimba kwambiri ngati nkhandwe yoipayo. amakhoza kung'ung'udza ndi kuwafunkhira pansi.

Mabaluni a Bubble-Gum

Titafika pachisumbu china chaching'onocho, mwina chautali wa mapazi 50, tidapeza chikhalidwe chakale ndi ana akuwomba mabuloni apinki. Mayi wina wachikulire yemwe anali atavala zovala zosaoneka bwino, za utawaleza anayamwitsa khanda lake mwakachetechete. Ana ankasewera masewera ngati mabango pamene mabango achinyezi akuphwanyira pansi pa mapazi awo. Mphepo yozizira inawomba pachilumbachi.

Nthano imanena kuti Uro womaliza wamagazi adamwalira zaka 50 zapitazo. Masiku ano, ma jini awo amakhala aang'ono kwambiri, Uro nthawi zambiri amakwatirana ndi Aymara ndi Quechua akumeneko.

Pamene ndinkayang’ana pachilumbachi, ndinaona kuti nyanja ya Titicaca ikupitirirabe mpaka kalekale. Nyanja yapamwamba kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi yomwe mungayendemo ndi nyanja yayikulu kwambiri yoyambira ku Bolivia. Kuchokera ku Puno kupita ku gombe la Bolivia lomwe lili pafupi kwambiri ndi likulu la La Paz ndi ulendo wa makilomita oposa 100. Malire a mayiko awiriwa ali penapake pakati pa nyanjayi.

Mtsinje wamadzi umenewo umapangitsa nyanja ya Titicaca kukhala malo otanganidwa usiku, pamene ozembetsa anthu amawoloka m’mabwato ang’onoang’ono, akuyenda modutsa nyenyezi ndi kunyamula katundu wamtengo wapatali wa ku Bolivia kuti akagulitse m’misika yakumeneko ku Peru.

'All Contraband'

Ndi kusefukira kwa katundu wosaloledwa, msika ku Juliaca, Peru - kumene ndinawona amphaka otsika mtengo - akuchuluka Lamlungu.

"Zopanda malire. Zonse zopanda pake, "adatero wonditsogolera, Julio Suano.

"Akuzembetsa mapepala akuchimbudzi?" Ndidafunsa.

“Zedi,” iye anatero. “Komanso njinga zamoto zaku China komanso zophatikizira. Ndi gasi. Gasi ndi soles zisanu ndi imodzi (pafupifupi $1.93) lita imodzi ku Bolivia ndi soles 15 (pafupifupi $4.83) litre kuno.”

Tsiku lotsatira tinakwera ngalawa kupita ku chisumbu chokongola cha Taquile. Ichi ndi chilumba chenicheni, cha miyala yamtengo wapatali ndi masitepe akuthwa omangidwa ndi Inca; wa minda ya golide, nthaka yowirira kwambiri ya mizere yofiirira ndi mitengo yobiriwira yobiriwira.

Onjezani nyumba za denga lofiyira, ndipo ikanakwera ndege kuchokera ku Tuscany, ngakhale inalibe magetsi ndi magalimoto. Suano adati anthu a pachilumbachi anali otalikirana ndi chikhalidwe chamakono mpaka zaka za m'ma 1950.

Zovala 'Zaluso'

Chuma cha Taquile chinazikidwa pa miyambo yakale yoluka nsalu zapadela kwambiri moti zaka zinayi zapitazo Unesco inalengeza kuti chilumbachi ndi luso lake ndi chimodzi mwa 43 “Zaluso Zaluso za Oral and Intangible Heritages of Humanity.” Amalukira zinthu zokongola zawo pazitsulo zosasunthika komanso zopondaponda zomwe zinayamba kale ku Spain.

Tinakweza njira yopita kumtunda wa chilumbachi kuti tiwone zitsanzo za zojambulajambula. Miguel Cruz Qispe, mmodzi mwa owomba nsalu otchuka kwambiri a Taquile, anapereka moni kwa ngalawa yathu kenako n’kumanga masitepe a miyala 535 omwe ndi njira ina yopita pamwamba. Anatilonjeranso pansongapo, osalephera ngakhale pang’ono kupuma pambuyo pa moyo wokwera m’mwamba.

Amuna, akazi ndi ana amaluka ndi kuluka pamodzi, ndipo amavala zovala zamwambo zimene amapanga. Oluka nsalu za Taquile amadziwika kwambiri ndi chullo, chipewa choluka chomwe amuna ankavala kwa zaka mazana asanu ndi limodzi zapitazi.

Chulo chofiira ndi choyera chimasonyeza kupezeka kwa ukwati, pamene njira zofiira zonse zatengedwa kale. Anthu okhala pachilumbachi amadziwikanso ndi lamba wa kalendala yemwe amuna amavala, kuwonetsa nyengo, ntchito zaulimi ndi miyambo yakumaloko chaka chonse.

Mtengo Wokwera, Palibe Haggle

Mitengo ndi yokwera ku Peru. Lamba wovuta wakalendala ukhoza kupitilira $100, ndipo zikuwoneka kuti panalibe kufunitsitsa kuchitapo kanthu. Kwinakwake ndinagula chikwama choluka pamanja kuchokera kwa mayi wina pamsewu wa $5. Zowona, sizinali zaluso zosankhidwa ndi UNESCO.

Hotelo yatsopano ya Titlaka, hotelo ya 18-suite boutique, ikupita kutali kuti ithetse kusowa kwa malo abwino ogona pafupi ndi nyanja ya Titicaca. Zamkati mwa minimalist zimapereka chithunzithunzi chabwino chazojambula zowoneka bwino zachibadwidwe zomwe zimaphuka pamakona onse.

Kanyumba kalikonse kamakhala ndi bafa lalikulu lonyowa, labwino ku minofu yowawa mutakwera Taquile, ndi mazenera akulu a nyanja. Mtengo wa $ 552- $ 725 pa munthu usiku uliwonse umaphatikizapo bolodi lathunthu ndi ma cocktails onse, zakumwa za m'nyumba ndi vinyo ndi chakudya, komanso maulendo a ngalawa opita kuzilumbazi ndi maulendo otsogolera okaona malo ndi midzi. Alendo omwe akusungirako mausiku awiri adzalandira mausiku owonjezera.

Kayak ndi ngalawa zilipo kuti alendo agwiritse ntchito. Momwemonso matanki a okosijeni, omwe adachiritsa mwamuna wanga mphindi zisanu atadwala matenda okwera usiku.