M'bandakucha m'bandakucha m'malo odabwitsawa komanso omwe kale anali achinsinsi, anthu onyamula zikwama aku Europe komanso alendo odzaona zidendene aku America achita mantha.
Makamera akuthwanima, akuthamanga komanso makamera a kanema amayamba pomwe amonke achibuda akutuluka opanda nsapato m'nyumba zawo za amonke mwamwambo wopanda nthawi. Kuthamanga kwamphamvu kumadutsa pamzere wa mikanjo yachikasu yagolide, ndipo pafupifupi kupondaponda azimayi aku Lao akugwada akupereka chakudya kwa amonke.
Pambuyo pake tsiku lomwelo, kalonga wa likulu lakale lachifumu amene akuyesetsa kuteteza chikhalidwe cha m’tauni yake, akutsutsa kuti: “Kwa alendo ambiri odzaona malo, kubwera ku Luang Prabang kuli ngati kupita ulendo, koma amonke athu si anyani kapena njati.”
Mzinda wa Luang Prabang uli mkati mwa chigwa cha Mtsinje wa Mekong, wolekanitsidwa ndi dziko lonse ndi nkhondo ya Vietnam, unali wosiyana kwambiri nditauwona koyamba mu 1974.
Zowonongeka m'mphepete, inde, komabe kuphatikiza kwamatsenga kwanyumba zachikhalidwe za Lao, zomangamanga zachitsamunda za ku France ndi nyumba za amonke zachisomo zoposa 30, zina kuyambira zaka za zana la 14. Sinali nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale, koma gulu logwirizana, loona, lokhalamo.
Mofulumira mpaka 2008: Mabanja ambiri akale adachoka, kugulitsa kapena kubwereketsa nyumba zawo kwa anthu akunja olemera omwe asandutsa nyumba zogona alendo, malo odyera pa intaneti komanso malo ochitira pizza. Pali amonke ochepa chifukwa obwera kumene sakuthandizanso nyumba za amonke. Ndipo kuchuluka kwa alendo odzaona malo kukukulirakulira, tawuni yosalimba ya anthu 25,000 tsopano ikutenga pafupifupi 300,000 a iwo pachaka.
Ku Laos konse, zokopa alendo zidakwera modabwitsa 36.5 peresenti mu 2007, poyerekeza ndi 2006, ndi alendo opitilira 1.3 miliyoni m'miyezi 10 yoyambirira ya chaka, malinga ndi Pacific Asia Travel Association.
Patapita nthawi kuchokera pamene anthu opita m'misewu ikuluikulu ya ku Asia - Hong Kong, Singapore, Bangkok ndi ena - adayamba kuwonjezereka kumeneku, ngakhale, modabwitsa, pamene adawombera ndikukwera pamwamba pa chikhalidwe, chikhalidwe ndi mbiri yakale yomwe inachititsa kuti alendo abwere. ndege ya jumbo.
Tsopano, ndikusintha kwa malo omwe kale anali otalikirana ndi mikangano, maulamuliro odana ndi malo omwe anthu olimba mtima okha adapitako.
Ndipo pamene miyala yamtengo wapatali yomalizira ya ku Asia, imodzi ndi inzake, ikugonja ku kufota kwa zokopa alendo, mulidi zowawa mu mtima mwanga, limodzi ndi mlingo wa nsanje yadyera monga pa chikondi chimene munthu ayenera tsopano kugawana ndi ambiri.
“Siem Reap angakhale amodzi mwa malo oŵerengeka amene amamatirirabe ku zotsalira za Cambodia wakale, nkhondo isanayambe, kuphana,” ndinalemba motero m’buku langa la zochitika mu 1980, ndikubwerera m’tauni iyi ya kumpoto chakumadzulo kwa Cambodia miyezi ingapo pambuyo pa kugwa kwa dzikoli. wakupha Khmer Rouge.
Chiwopsezo cha anthu chinali choyipa kwambiri, koma Siem Reap mwiniyo adapirira, kukula kwake kochepa, konyowa, msika wakale waku France, mawonekedwe aluso oyenerera gulu lomwe lili m'mphepete mwa zolengedwa zazikulu zaku Cambodia, akachisi akale a Angkor.
Ku Angkor Wat, banja lina lachikale lopanda ndalama linapereka madzi ofunda a shuga a mgwalangwa kuchokera m’kapu yansungwi pamene asilikali ochepa ankandiperekeza ine, mlendo yekhayo, kudutsa m’zipinda zochititsa chidwi za kachisi wokongola kwambiri kuposa onsewo.
Paulendo waposachedwa ku Siem Reap, ndidakumana ndi malo ogwirira ntchito omwe ali ndi fumbi. M'mphepete mwa mtsinje waulesi wa Siem Reap munali mahotela okhala ndi mawindo agalasi okhala ndi magalasi ambiri, momwe zimbudzi zambiri zimatuluka kuchokera kumagulu anyumba za alendo. Msikawu unali ndi mipiringidzo yambiri pa block kuposa Las Vegas.
Ovulazidwa mwauzimu tsopano atha kusungitsa magawo a machiritso a munthu m'modzi m'malo abwino opumira okhala ndi "makochi amoyo" omwe amawuluka kuchokera ku United States, ndi "Angkorean" zokutira zamasamba a lotus ndi mpunga wofunda.
Ankhondo omwe akanakhala, pansi ndi kutopa kwapakachisi, anali kuponya mabomba pamanja ndi kuwombera mfuti zowononga $30 kuphulika pa Army Shooting Range. Phokeethra Royal Angkor Golf and Spa Resort, yomwe ili ndi mlatho wazaka za zana la 11 pakati pa maenje a 9 ndi 10, idabweretsa "masewera a njonda ku Zodabwitsa Zachisanu ndi chitatu za Padziko Lonse."
Msewu wamakilomita asanu ndi limodzi kuchokera ku Siem Reap kupita ku chodabwitsa chimenecho, kamodzi kanjira kabata komwe kamakhala ndi mitengo italiitali, udapanga gulu la mahotela ndi malo oyipa, ngati malo ogulitsira - ambiri aiwo akuphwanya malamulo oyika magawo.
Madzulo anga omaliza, ndimaganiza kuti Grand Prix ikuyendetsedwa. Achinyamata apaulendo anali kusonkhana ku maphwando a dzuwa pomwe mabasi amakapereka alendo aku China kumsewu waukulu wa Angkor Wat, wokometsedwa ndi utsi wotuluka.
Mwinamwake magulu a phukusi ndi alendo apamwamba, ndi zofuna zawo zosamalira bwino, amasiya chopondapo chachikulu kuposa onyamula zikwama. Koma ku Asia, onyamula zikwama akhala ngati magulu owunikiranso makampani, akulowa m'madera akumidzi kuti akhazikitse malo abwino ndikutsegulira njira apaulendo apamwamba. Dera la nthochi la nthochi limatchedwa, kutengera chimodzi mwazofunikira zawo.
Tengani Pai, mudzi womwe uli m'chigwa chachikulu, chozunguliridwa ndi mapiri kumpoto kwa Thailand. Kale kunali kuthaŵirako ku dziko losavuta, lachilendo, lokhala ndi midzi ya mafuko yomwazika m’mapiri, mpaka fuko losamuka la padziko lonse linaonekera mwaunyinji, likukokera chikhalidwe chawo.
Nyumba zokhala ndi nsungwi ndi udzu zimakumbatira mtsinje wa Pai womwe ukuyenda mozungulira mpaka momwe ungawonere, ndikutukula minda yampunga ndikukwera mapiri kugombe lake lakumanzere. Ku banki yakumanja, malo ogona okwera mtengo ayamba kukhala bowa.
Mzere wawung'ono wamtawuniyi uli wodzaza ndi Apple Pai ndi malo ena asanu ndi anayi opezeka pa intaneti, malo ochitira mavidiyo ndi ma tattoo, mabala, makalasi a yoga ndi kuphika, mashopu osawerengeka komanso malo odyera okhala ndi bagel ndi tchizi zonona.
Palinso nyuzipepala ya chinenero cha Chingerezi, yofalitsidwa ndi Joe Cummings, mlembi wa Mabaibulo amenewo akuyenda mofulumira, otsogolera a Lonely Planet, omwe mwina anachita zambiri kuposa china chilichonse kuti aike Pai pa dera. M'maloto oyipa, ndimatsutsa Joe kuti asadye chilichonse koma zikondamoyo za nthochi ndikunyamula chikwama cha mapaundi 500 mpaka muyaya.
Ngakhale anthu amene amapeza zofunika pa ntchito zokopa alendo amadandaula chifukwa cha kukulako.
“Zatukuka kwambiri tsopano. Konkire yochuluka paliponse, nyumba zambiri za alendo, "akutero Watcharee Boonyathammaraksa, yemwe, nditakumana naye koyamba mu 1999, anali atangothawa kumene ku Bangkok komwe amatsatsa malonda kuti akayambitse cafe, All About Coffee, yomwe ili imodzi mwa nyumba zakale zamatabwa. anasiyidwa mtawuni.
Luang Prabang wachita bwino kuti asawononge zakale. Bungwe la UNESCO lakhala likuyang’anitsitsa pambuyo polengeza kuti ndi malo a World Heritage mu 1995. Bungweli linafotokoza za miyala yamtengo wapatali ya m’tauniyo kuti ndi “mzinda wotetezedwa bwino kwambiri wa kum’mwera chakum’mawa kwa Asia.”
Komabe, katswiri wakale wa bungwe la UNESCO, Francis Engelmann, anati: “Tapulumutsa nyumba za Luang Prabang, koma moyo wake wataya.”
Anthu achikhalidwe chawo akutha chifukwa cha zokopa alendo, pomwe omwe akutenga nyumba zakale akufunitsitsa kupeza phindu m'malo mothandizira nyumba za amonke, zomwe zimapezeka makamaka pazopereka za okhulupirika.
Nyumba ina ya amonke, Engelmann akuti, yatseka kale ndipo abale ena akudandaula kuti alendo amalowa m'nyumba zawo osaitanidwa kuti azijambula zithunzi "m'mphuno mwawo" powerenga kapena kusinkhasinkha.
Akuluakulu achipembedzo amanena za mankhwala osokoneza bongo, kugonana ndi zigawenga zing'onozing'ono, zomwe poyamba sizinkadziwika, pakati pa achinyamata omwe amaphunzira kuchokera kunja monga zokopa ndi madandaulo akuzungulira zipata za kachisi wawo.
"Zokhazikika, zamakhalidwe abwino, zokopa alendo" - akuluakulu oyendera alendo ku Laos ndi kwina kulikonse ku Asia amayimba mawu osangalatsa awa. Koma mapulani awo amakankhira "zambiri, zambiri, zambiri."
Palibe chomwe chimayika maboma am'derali ndi ogulitsa mumsangalalo wozama kuposa kutsika kwa ofika chifukwa cha tsunami kapena kuphulika kwa chimfine cha mbalame.
Ku Luang Prabang, malinga ndi kuwerengera kwa boma, nyumba za alendo ndi mahotela opitilira 160 ali kale ndi bizinesi, pomwe aku China ndi aku Korea akukonzekera zina zazikulu kwambiri kuti agulitse malonda.
Pamphepete mwa msewu wautali wa Sisavangvong Road, pakatikati pa tawuni yakale, nyumba iliyonse imakhala ndi anthu owonera mwanjira ina. Ndizosangalatsa bwanji kuti pomaliza ndipeze imodzi yomwe siyipeza, ngakhale ndi nyumba imodzi ya Luang Prabang Provincial Federation of Trade Unions. Munthu wowonda, wokalamba, wopanda nsapato komanso atavala sarong yamtundu wa buluu, zikadakhala zodziwika zaka zingapo zapitazo. Tsopano, pamene akuyenda kudutsa Sisavangvong, pakati pa nsapato zoyenda ndi mapaki okongola, akuwoneka ngati mlendo kumudzi kwawo.
Pafupi, ku Cultural House Puang Champ, mzanga Prince Nithakhong Tiaoksomsanith akuyembekeza kuti mwanjira ina adzachita ngati njira ya chikhalidwe chenicheni cha Lao pakati pa mbadwo wapadziko lonse lapansi ndi womwe ukupita.
Nyumba yake yamatabwa yachikhalidwe, yokhazikika pamiyendo, imakhala ngati malo omwe ambuye akale amaphunzitsa nyimbo, kuvina, kuphika, nsalu zagolide ndi zaluso zina.
Izi, akutero Nithakhong, zitha kuthandiza kulepheretsa zomwe Luang Prabang angakumane nazo: "Disneyland."
Choncho, madzulo madzulo, achinyamata anayi motsogoleredwa ndi woimba yemwe nthawi ina ankaimba m’nyumba yachifumu, amachita masewerawa. Pazingwe ndi nyimbo, amaimba Lao Full Moon, nyimbo yachisoni, yachikondi.
Koma ngakhale gulu lachinsinsi ili ndilowopsa. Ana akamaseŵera, mlendo wodzaona malo amayesa kuloŵa.
Alendo ambiri, akudina makamera m'manja.
thewhig.com
