Wolemba apita ku North Korea ndi alendo aku China

Matigari okokedwa ndi ng'ombe amalira ndi zipilala zazitali za nsangalabwi - zokhala ndi mawu ngati "Tikhale ndi moyo kosatha bambo athu" [Kim Il Sung]. Zotsalira za misewu inayi zikufanana ndi njanji ya masitima apamtunda imodzi yomwe imayendetsa magalimoto onse kudutsa kumpoto chakumadzulo. Ana asukulu ovala akabudula ong’ambika amaseŵera pafupi ndi alonda ouma nkhope (ana anyamula ndodo; asilikali, mfuti zodziwikiratu).

Kusamvana kotereku kukuwonetsa dziko lododometsa komanso losayerekezeka lomwe ndi Democratic People's Republic of Korea, ufumu wa hermit womwe utha kukhala ndi zida zanyukiliya zokwana theka kapena kupitilira apo pomwe ukutsala pang'ono kugwa njala yomwe ingawononge anthu ake ambiri.

Tsopano, ndi malipoti akunja oti munthu wamphamvu waku North Korea, Kim Jong Il, akudwala kwambiri, chidwi chapadziko lonse lapansi chikuyang'ananso dziko lovutali. Atsogoleri adziko lapansi akadakhalabe, monganso wina aliyense, adadandaula za njira yaku North Korea. Chifukwa chake ndi chosavuta: palibe chilichonse - nkhani, zaluso zaku Western, ngakhale anthu - zimaloledwa kulowa, kapena kutuluka.

Koma ndili pano, ndikukwera sitima yochokera ku Germany ndi alendo ena 30 a ku China komanso alonda ambiri aku North Korea akulondera m'nyumba, popita ku Pyongyang. Ndabwera kudzawona momwe moyo uliri kuno kwa anthu aku Korea, ndikumayembekezera zopusa.

Chimene sindimayembekezera chinali phunziro la mbiri yakale pa chikhalidwe changa (ndinachoka ku China kupita ku US pamene ndinali ndi zaka 6), chifukwa ndinali nditadutsa mosadziwa ndikudutsa mu 1970s Red China, mpaka ku Orwellian surveillance ndi kuulula kokakamiza.

Tchuthi changa chinayambira ku Dandong, malo osindikizira amtundu wina uliwonse waku China, misewu yake yodzaza ndi magalimoto, zikwangwani zowoneka bwino, ndi zokopa zamitundu yonse zomwe zimakwaniritsa maloto a capitalist. M'mawa wina kumapeto kwa mwezi watha, sitima yapamtunda yomwe imayenda kamodzi patsiku idatsika mtsinje wa Yalu kupita ku North Korea.

Ngakhale kuti panali kukwiyira komwe kunkayembekezeredwa kuchokera kwa alendo aku China - "Tawonani kuchuluka kwa anthu omwe adakankhira sitimayi," mayi wina adadandaula - okwera ambiri amamvetsetsa. “Amakhala bwinoko kuposa alimi a ku Shaanxi ndi Gansu,” anatero mwamuna wapafupi ndi ine, pamene anayang’ana minda yobiriŵira yosatha ya mpunga ndi chimanga ndi nyumba zomangidwa ndi boma.

Gulu lathu loyendayenda linaphatikizapo anthu osiyanasiyana: mayi wachikulire amene anapeza dzina la mlamu wake pa chipilala cha Pyongyang cha anzake a ku China amene anamwalira pankhondo ya ku Korea; wapaulendo wachinyamata yemwe anali kukonzekera ulendo wotsatira, kukwera njanji ya Tran-Siberia kupita ku Moscow; Wachikoreya wolimba mtima yemwe amakhala ku China ndipo adayenda ulendowu ngati masewera ongopita kumapeto kwa sabata.

Ngakhale kuti ili ndi gulu lapakati lomwe lingathe kupita kutchuthi ku Thailand kapena ku Hawaii, China idakali ndi anthu ambiri omwe amapita ku North Korea chaka chilichonse - mazana patsiku mu August ndi September pa masewera a Arirang, masewera olimbitsa thupi. Ukhoza kukhala chithandizo chapamphasa wofiira chomwe amalandira (mahotela a nyenyezi zisanu, maphwando a buffet, matikiti a VIP), koma ndikuwona kuti kwa apaulendo anzanga, ambiri azaka zawo za m'ma 50, ulendowu unali mwayi wokaonanso unyamata wawo wopweteka ku China. , ndi kunena kuti, “Taonani mmene ndapitira.”

Wotsogolera wamkulu, Ju Rol, wa ku North Korea wongokwatirana kumene, anatilonjera pa siteshoni ya sitima ya Pyongyang ya m’nthawi ya Soviet. Sanavale suti zosayenera zodziwika bwino ndi anthu aku North Korea, koma malaya achizungu achizungu, ndipo limodzi ndi katchulidwe kake ka Chitchaina, adadzipangitsa kuti azikondedwa ndi gululo - kapena azimayi, omwe adaseka. nthabwala zake.

Anatikwezera m’basi yooneka bwino, imene inakhala kalasi yathu kwa masiku atatu otsatira. Phunziro la tsiku loyamba, pamene tinkayenda kuchokera pa USS Pueblo yomwe inagwidwa kupita ku Pyongyang Metro, inakhudza “zokongola zitatu” za North Korea: zobiriwira, mpweya, ndi akazi. Monga ngati akudziwa, m'modzi mwa akazi omwe amamukonda adati, "Simudzawona mlengalenga wabuluu ngati uwu ku Beijing."

Pa Tsiku 2, adayang'ana kwambiri za "maufulu atatu" a anthu aku Korea: maphunziro, chisamaliro chaumoyo, ndi nyumba. Chifukwa tinali ndi ulendo wa basi wa maola awiri kupita ku Mt. Myohyang, kunyumba ya linga la 400 komwe mphatso zopita ku DPRK zimasonyezedwa monyadira, adapempha mafunso. "Ndi tirigu wochuluka bwanji amapatsidwa kwa wogwira ntchito aliyense pamwezi?" anafunsa motero Wang Zhelu, mphunzitsi wa ku Dalian.

“Makilogramu 27,” anayankha motero Bambo Ju, zimene zinachititsa kung’ung’udza kwa chivomerezo cha gulu limene linakula ndi makuponi ogaŵira chakudya (malinga ndi World Food Programme ya UN, chiŵerengero chenichenicho ndi pafupifupi ma kilogalamu asanu, nyama yopezeka kokha. patchuthi cha dziko).

"Nanga bwanji zipinda - ndi zazikulu bwanji?" anafunsa Zhao Heping, injiniya wopuma pantchito wandege zankhondo wa ku Beijing.

"Mamilimita mazana asanu ndi atatu mpaka 1,500 masikweya". Izi zidadzetsa kung'ung'udza kochulukira, monga munthu wina wokhala ku Beijing adati izi zitha kukhala zazikulu kuposa malo ake.

Kodi tikupempha kuti tizikhala kuti? winawake anaseka, mwanthabwala mwatheka.
Kusekako kutatha, Liu Yi, womenyera ufulu wa anthu wa ku Hong Kong, anafunsa kuti, “Kodi mungagule galimoto?”

Izi sizinkawoneka ngati zili m'malemba a Ju. Atakhala chete kwa nthawi yayitali, adayankha kuti, "Inde, ngati ndinu katswiri wamafilimu." Ndiyeno anatiuza kuti tipume.
Pambuyo pake tsiku lomwelo, pa chakudya chamasana chachisanu ndi chimodzi, mkhalidwewo unali wovuta kwambiri. “Moyo uli wodekha kwambiri kuno,” anatero mmodzi wa ogula malo. "Ku China, kuyambira tsiku loyamba la sukulu ya pulayimale, mumakhala ndi nkhawa."

Komabe, kwa ena mwa apaulendowo, zikuwonekeratu kuti chimodzi mwazolinga zazikulu za aku North Korea ndi ulendowu sichinali kupanga ndalama ($ 350 kwa masiku onse anayi), koma kutsimikizira aku China kuti dziko la 30. anthu wamba mamiliyoni mwanjira ina akwaniritsa paradaiso womaliza wa antchito.

Pofika kumapeto kwa Tsiku la 3, ambiri a ku China, ngakhale atatometsedwa ndi chakudya ndi ma concert, anali kusokonezeka. Malamulo ambiri okhudza zomwe angajambule ndi komwe angapite ndi zomwe sanakumanepo nazo kuyambira pa Cultural Revolution zaka 30 zapitazo. Ndipo adaphonya mafoni awo (osungidwa ndi othandizira aku North Korea pamalire, ndi mapasipoti athu).

Kutenga kwanga - osayang'aniridwa kamodzi - kulowa mtawuni ya Pyongyang masanawa kunabweretsa zokumana nazo zake. Pa mapazi a 6, mainchesi 4 ndi masewera T-shirt "I heart Brasil" T-shirt, sindinali wosadziwikiratu, ndipo North Korea ndinadutsa, ndikudandaula za kugwirizana ndi mlendo, anapewa kuyang'ana maso.

Kwa ola lathunthu, ndidazindikira za moyo watsiku ndi tsiku ku North Korea. Chodabwitsa changa, sizinali zosiyana kwambiri ndi mzinda wanu wapadziko lonse lapansi. Mikhalidwe inali yovuta, inde, koma osati yodabwitsa monga momwe ambiri Kumadzulo angaganizire. Panali ogulitsa m’misewu, matroli amagetsi, njinga, ndi mashopu apafupi.

Panalinso kusiyana kumodzi kodziwika: malingaliro osayerekezeka a paranoia ndi ulamuliro wa Stalinish. Tengani zovuta zanga za maola asanu ndi limodzi ndi Public Security Bureau. Ndinagwidwa muukonde wawo nditajambula zithunzi zosasangalatsa za m'kanyumba kakang'ono kameneka, msika waulere wosowa wa kuntchito. Azimayi olemera mu madiresi a pinki adawonekera mwadzidzidzi.

Anandipereka kwa apolisi omwe ankawopa, omwe anangondilola kupita pambuyo podzidzudzula zomwe zikanapangitsa Mao kudzikuza. Koma uku sikunakhale kukumana kwanga komaliza ndi akuluakulu aboma. Usiku woti sitima yathu isanakwere kubwerera ku China, Ju, yemwe anali wochezeka nthawi zonse, wotitsogolera, anakana kuchoka m'chipinda changa cha hotelo mpaka atafufuza memori khadi "yosowa" kuchokera ku kamera yanga.

Mwamwayi, mnzanga yemwe ndinkagona naye anasankha mphindi ino kuti atuluke m'bafa. Ju mwachiwonekere adaganiza kuti izi zidamuchulukira ndipo adathawa mpaka usiku.

Tsiku lotsatira, pobwerera, galimoto yathu inakhala chete m’tauni ya Sinuiju yomwe ili m’malire a dziko la North Korea. Gulu lina la anthu aku North Korea, atatopa ndi zankhondo, adalamula aliyense kuti achotse zikwama zawo, kuyang'ana zithunzi zomwe adazipeza molakwika.

Potsirizira pake, ndi chisangalalo chachikulu cha gulu lathu, sitimayo inatuluka pasiteshoni, kunka ku magetsi owala, Kentucky Fried Chickens, ndi kulira kwa madalaivala opanda chipiriro otidikirira kuwoloka mtsinje ku China.