Ma Sultan aku Spain

Faisal al Yafai amapita ku Andalucia kuti akatsate cholowa cha Asilamu achi Arab ndi kumpoto kwa Africa omwe adalamulira derali kwa zaka 800.

Awa ndi malo obwera kudzamva mphekesera. Pamwamba pamwamba pa mzindawo, amayi azaka zapakati ovala madiresi a chilimwe amayenda ngati thovu la sopo, akugundana wina ndi mzake ndikugwirizanitsa manja, kapena akuthamanga mbali zosiyanasiyana. Msika wonse ndi wochuluka wa mnofu pa thupi: manja kugwira manja ena, zigongono, mikono; zala kusisita zipatso moganizira.

Ndiyenera kubwera ku Granada kuti ndikaone zomwe zatsala za Al Andalus, nthawi yayitali kwambiri ya mbiri ya Iberia pamene Asilamu ankalamulira chilumbachi. Msika wam'mawa ku Plaza Larga m'dera lachi Muslim la Albayzin ndi mlatho womveka bwino wakale: wosasinthika kwa zaka mazana ambiri, chiyanjano kuchokera nthawi imeneyo mpaka izi.

Kumeneku n’kumene m’zaka za m’ma 15 anthu amene panthawiyo anali Asilamu ambiri ankabwera kudzagulitsa katundu ndi miseche. Ndiko kumene ayenera kuti anamva mphekesera za kubwera kwa magulu ankhondo a Mafumu a Chikatolika Isabella ndi Ferdinand. Ndipo ndikuchokera apa kuti Asilamu ndi Ayuda adachoka pambuyo pa kugwa kwa Granada mu 1492, kuthawira kumayiko otetezeka ku North Africa kapena Europe.

Zochitikazo ndi zaphokoso, koma ogulitsa amandichotsa: akuwona kuti sindine wochokera pano, kuti sindikufuna tomato wawo, zovala zawo kapena zokambirana zawo. M'malo mwake timayang'anana wina ndi mzake kuchokera m'ngodya za maso athu.

Bambo wina wachikulire, wovala masilipi komanso atanyamula chikwama, amakhala pafupi nane n’kupereka ndudu. Amaloza pomwe khamu la anthu likutengera mkazi wake ndipo timakambirana za ulendo wanga. Akuganiza kuti mwina ndataya gulu langa loyendera alendo. Ndikumuuza kuti ndikuyang'ana zomwe zatsalira Al Andalus. Iye akufwenthera. “Miyala ndi miyala,” iye akutero, “miyala ndi miyala yakale yokha basi. Ndipo wapita.

Komabe mbiri ya Al Andalus ndiyambiri kuposa zotsalira. Kuyambira pomwe akazembe a ufumu wa Muslim Ummayad adawolokera ku Gibraltar mu 711, mbiri ya ku Europe idasinthidwa.

Asilamu anakulitsa ulamuliro wawo kudera lonse lomwe masiku ano limatchedwa Spain ndi Portugal komanso mpaka ku France masiku ano, n’kupanga mizinda imene inakhala malo ophunzirira ndi chikhalidwe, kumasulira mabuku a sayansi ndi filosofi kuchokera m’Chiarabu kupita m’Chilatini, n’kukhazikitsa maziko a maphunziro. European Renaissance. Owatsutsa anali gulu la maufumu achikristu a ku Spain amene, m’zaka 800 zotsatira, anamenya nkhondo kuti atengenso chilumbachi, pang’onopang’ono mpaka, mu 1492, mzinda womalizira wa Granada unalandidwa.

Kuchokera ku Plaza Larga, ndimayenda maulendo angapo motsatira masitepe amiyala, ndikukwera mmwamba, ndikugwira makoma oyera nthawi zina kuti ndipume ngati kutentha kwa tsiku kumakwera. Mphotho yanga ndikuwona kuchokera ku Mirador de San Cristóbal, kawonekedwe kakang'ono ka semicircular.

Kuchokera apa, malingaliro a Alhambra, linga la Nasrids ndi maziko a Granada, ali omveka. Mayiko akum'mwera akuwonekera momveka bwino: mawonekedwe osasunthika pamwamba pa burgundy pamwamba pa nyumba, kudutsa m'mphepete mwa mzindawo, kupita kuminda yobiriwira ndi mtsogolo kumene dziko limasanduka bulauni ndipo mapiri a Sierra Nevada akukwera.

Kuchokera ku malo awo otetezedwa ku Alhambra, mafumu a Nasrid ankatha kulamulira dera lalikulu la Spain. Komabe mwanjira ina, kuopsa kwa chimphepo chamkuntho chomwe chinawagwera m'zaka za zana la 15 sichinadziwike.

Ulendo uliwonse wodutsa kum'mwera kwa Spain umakutengerani kudutsa m'matauni ambiri okhala ndi zilembo zofanana - Jerez de la Frontera, Vejer de la Frontera - zikumbutso zonse za zilankhulo zomwe malire apakati pa Nasrid emirs ndi anzawo achikhristu adasintha nthawi zambiri.

Kwa Reconquista - nkhondo za maufumu achikhristu a ku Spain kuti athetse ulamuliro wa Chisilamu pachilumbachi - sichinali chochitika chimodzi; zinali zaka mazana ambiri ndipo mibadwo yambiri idabadwa, kukhala ndi kufa mumthunzi wake. Madera kumbali zonse za malire omwe amagulitsidwa, anali ndi mapangano oti adutse bwino, ngakhale zikondwerero zogawana - ndipo nthawi zina nkhondo zankhanza. Mbali zonse ziwirizi zinakamba za convivencia, za kukhalirana pamodzi.

Pa mizati yoyambirira 1,013 ya m’holo yopemphereramo ku Mezquita ku Córdoba, 856 yatsala chiyambire pamene nyumbayo inasinthidwa kukhala tchalitchi. Zithunzi za Manuel Cohen / Getty

Komabe iwo ankadziwa zomwe ayenera kuyembekezera pambuyo pake. Granada pofika m’zaka za m’ma 15 inali yodzaza ndi anthu amene anathawa m’madera ena a ku Spain.

Bwalo la Inquisition linali litafika zaka khumi zapitazo. Conversos, mabanja achiyuda aja omwe adatembenukira ku Chikhristu atapanikizidwa koma adayesetsa kusunga zizolowezi zawo, adawakayikira kwambiri ndipo ambiri adathawira kuchitetezo cha Granada.

Lero, ndikuyenda mozungulira Albayzin, zotsalira za kusakaniza kumeneku zikuwonekerabe: Ndimadutsa nyumba imodzi yaumwini ndi golidi Nyenyezi za Davide pakhomo, zomwe zimapangidwira mu chikhalidwe cha Chisilamu.

Panalinso kusakanizika kwina kwa zikhulupiriro, komwe kunali kosagwirizana. Kum'maŵa ku Cordoba, komwe kale kunali malo ophunzirira komanso umodzi mwamizinda yokhala ndi anthu ambiri ku Europe, a Castillian anali kukonzanso Mezquita kukhala tchalitchi, akusema nyumba yopemphereramo pakati pa zipilala zake ndi zipilala zake, ndikudzaza mzindawu ndi anthu ochokera kumayiko ena. kumpoto. Njira yomweyo imabwera ku Granada.

Kumbuyo kwa chozizwitsacho kuli Tchalitchi cha San Cristobal. Poyamba unali mzikiti, udasinthidwa ndikumangidwanso, pomwe minaret idapangidwanso kukhala nsanja ya belu. Makomawo anamangidwa ndi miyala yamutu kuchokera kumanda a Chisilamu - ngakhale lero malemba achiarabu ochokera pamitu akuwonekera bwino pamakoma akunja.

Usiku, Albaicinis wamng'ono amasonkhana pano - ndi ku Mirador de San Nicolas wamkulu, wotchuka kwambiri, womwe umayang'ananso Alhambra - kuyang'ana pa linga lowala mu mitundu yofunda, mipanda ya makoma yonyezimira yachikasu kupyolera mumitengo yakuda.

Amamva chikondi cha nthawiyo ndikunong'onezana. Kwa zaka zambiri makolo awo ayenera kuti ankayang’ana kutsidya la Alhambra n’kumaona kuti n’losatheka kutha. Ikanagwa bwanji?

Njira yopita ku Alhambra imadutsa ku Albayzin, kudutsa m'minda ndikudutsa makoma oyera oyera, musanakusungitseni kumbuyo kwa mizere yayitali ya alendo.

Nyumba yachifumuyi ilidi nyumba zitatu: nyumba yachifumu yokha, yomwe inali nyumba ya sultani, banja lake ndi alangizi ake; Alcazaba, linga ndi citadel, ndi Generalife, misewu ya minda, njira ndi akasupe. Kuyang'ana kuchokera ku Albayzin moyang'anizana, ikuwoneka ngati nyumba yachifumu: mkati mwa makoma ake, zipinda ndi zazikulu zaumunthu komanso zokhalamo.

Mkati mwa nyumba yachifumuyi, tsatanetsatane wake ndi wodabwitsa: zolembedwa pamipukutu yochokera mu Korani zimakongoletsa makoma, zithunzi za azure ndi amber, mapangidwe owoneka bwino a zomangamanga omwe amawoneka ngati machenjerero a kuwala. Zipindazo sizikulongosoledwa bwino chifukwa sizinali zoyenera kufotokozedwa: kukongola kwa Alhambra kumatayika poyang'ana ndipo kumapezeka pogwiritsidwa ntchito.

Ndikaima m’munda wina wamthunzi kuti ndimwe madzi ndi kulola magulu odzaona malo adutse m’pamene ndimaona matsenga ndi mtendere wa nyumba yachifumuyo. Phokoso la madzi akusefukira kuchokera ku akasupe limasokoneza malingaliro anga ndipo ndimadzipeza ndikugwedezeka, ndikuyang'ana osayang'ana mapangidwe a makoma. Patadutsa mphindi makumi anayi ndisanadzuke.

Chomwecho chinali cholinga cha okonza. Asilamu aku Spain aku Al Andalus sanamange nyumba zachipembedzo kuti asangalatse ena. Kwa iwo, kamangidwe kachipembedzo kanapangidwa kusonyeza umulungu: mizere yangwiro yoimira umodzi wa Mulungu, minda yoziziritsa yosonyeza moyo wa pambuyo pa imfa.

Ngakhale lero, Alhambra idakali yothandiza: kumunsi kwa mzindawu, Cathedral of Granada, yomwe idamangidwa kuti ikumbukire kubwezeretsedwa kwa mzindawu, ndikusakanikirana kwakukulu kwaulemerero ndi kudzipereka, magalasi opaka utoto, ziboliboli ndi zipilala zazitali zoyera zomwe zimachititsa chidwi kwa olambira. Kumwamba uku, zomwe zimachitika ndi zosiyana. Akazi amanong'oneza amuna awo kuti amange matayala amtundu wofananawo m'bafa. Bambo wina afunsa bwenzi lake kuti akuganiza kuti khomo ngati limenelo lingawononge ndalama zingati pobwerera kunyumba. Zipatso zapanyumba zolimbikitsidwa ndi chitukuko chakufa kalekale.

Chinsinsi cha Alhambra n’chifukwa chake anapitirizabe kumanga. Tsatanetsatane wa lusoli limasonyeza ntchito ya chikondi, ngati kuti omwe adayipanga amakhulupirira kuti kusakaniza kotereku kwa masamu ndi matope kumapangitsa kuti nyumba yachifumuyo ipirire, ndipo mwina nawonso. Ngakhale pamene magulu ankhondo a Mafumu Achikatolika anasonkhana kumadzulo, Alhambra inali kumangidwabe.

Zambiri za Granada yamakono ndi zakale - kaya ulemerero wa Al Andalus kapena ukulu wa Reconquista: kupanga ndi kutenga. Granadinos amasangalala nazo. Pa Januware 2, tsiku la 1492 pomwe olamulira a Nasrid adagonja, mzindawu ukukondwerera Dia de la Toma, Tsiku la Kutenga, tsiku lachikondwerero lomwe nthawi zambiri limatsutsidwa ndi andale akumanzere ndikubedwa ndi kumanja.

Ndipo komabe ambiri odzaona alendo amabwera kudzawona mbiri isanachitike Reconquista: Alhambra ndiye malo otchuka kwambiri oyendera alendo ku Spain konse. Ma trinkets omwe amagulitsidwa m'misewu yozungulira Plaza Bib Rambla adatengera nthawi imeneyo - matumba ndi masiketi ndi zikwangwani, zojambula zochokera ku Islamic Spain, zogulitsidwa ndi a Moroccan, zopangidwa ku China.

Kuti ndimvetse kutsutsana kumeneku, ndikupita kukawona Munira, wojambula wobadwira ku America yemwe ntchito yake ndinaipeza koyamba ku Grand Mosque ku Albayzin dzulo lake ndipo wakhala mumzindawu kwa zaka makumi atatu.

"Kunenanso kwa a Moor m'mbuyomu ndi chifukwa cha bizinesi," akutero titakhala mu hotelo yapamwamba pafupi ndi Reyes Catolicos mkatikati mwa tauni, malo odyera okongoletsedwa ngati nyumba yachiMoor. “Ndi zimene alendo odzaona malo amafuna. Zaka makumi atatu zokha zapitazo, Alhambra inaiwalika, mkati mwake munali zinyalala. Kwa zaka 500 akhala akulimbana nalo ndi kuyesa kulifafaniza, koma tsopano azindikira kuti ndilo tsogolo lawo ndipo alandira.”

Ndimamufunsa chifukwa chake anthu a ku Spain akanachitira zimenezo. Bwanji osadzutsanso miyambo yawo yeniyeni? Amandiyimitsa. “Simukumvetsa. Zakale zachiMoor ndi Chisipanishi chenicheni. Asilamu anali a Spaniards - anali pano kwa zaka mazana ambiri. Ngati mungakhale wa ku Amereka pambuyo pa mibadwo iŵiri, ngakhale pambuyo pa umodzi, nanga bwanji Asilamu amene anali kuno kwa zaka mazana ambiri?”

Zowonadi, ogonjetsa a ku Spain sanali kuthamangitsa alendo - anali kuthamangitsa anthu awo. Ndi chomaliza cha Reconquista, zotsatira zake zinali zankhanza.

Mu Mithunzi ya Mtengo wa Makangaza, buku la Tariq Ali likuganiziranso nthawi imeneyo, mipukutu yambirimbiri imawotchedwa Granada atagwa, chidziwitso chonse cha chitukuko chikusoweka.

The Reconquista nthawi zambiri amakumbukiridwa chifukwa cha tsankho la olamulira achikatolika kwa Asilamu ndi Ayuda - buku la Ali limatikumbutsa kuti anali Akhristu a ku Spain omwe adavutikanso ndi imfa ya Al Andalus.

Pa sitiroko moyo wa anthu a ku Spain kumwera unasintha: obwera kumene makamaka ochokera kumpoto, ndi katchulidwe kosiyana ndi miyambo, ndipo anayesa kufafaniza zotsalira zonse za nthawi imeneyo - ngakhale bathhouses, zofunika kwambiri pa moyo wa tsiku ndi tsiku pansi pa Asilamu. anatsekedwa ndipo kusamba kunali koletsedwa ndi olamulira atsopano. Koma panali wotsala mmodzi amene sakanatha kuwachotsa.

Elvira ndi msewu wa Magreb. Pakatikati pa mzindawu, imayendera limodzi ndi msewu waukulu wa Gran Via de Colon. Ndipamene chikoka chamakono cha Arabi ndi Berber chili champhamvu kwambiri.

Kumapeto kwake kumadzulo kuli mabowo a schwarma-pakhoma ndi masitolo ogulitsa zinthu za ku Morocco: akazi ovala malaya amutu akugwirana chanza ndikuseka mu Chiarabu, pamene Ajeremani ovala jeans olimba ndi a Spaniard opanda malaya panjinga amadutsa.

M'misewu ikuphulika, phokoso la madzi othamanga likusakanikirana ndi nyimbo zachiarabu ndi Katie Melua. Izi ndizomwe zimachitikira anthu onyamula zikwama: m'malesitilanti omwe amayatsidwa ndi nyali zaku Moroccan, achinyamata aku Europe ndi North America amasinthana nkhani pamowa. Pali hippie vibe: shawls ndi masiketi amtundu wa dziko lapansi, makandulo ndi ziboliboli za Buddha.

Koma chakum’maŵa, pafupi ndi kumene Elvira amafika ku Reyes Catolicos, kumene fano la Mfumukazi Isabella ndi Christopher Columbus likukhala, derali likukula. Kuno alendo olemera ochuluka amabwera kudzalipira ndalama zabwino kuti adye bwino.

Umu ndi momwe ndimakumana ndi Mustafa, mwiniwake wa malo odyera awiri a ku Morocco, mwamuna yemwe amathera masiku ake atazunguliridwa ndi alendo a ku Turkey ndi olemba ndakatulo a ku America. Amandiitana kuti ndikhale ndi paella naye, kuyankhula ndale komanso kuyenda - komanso chakudya.

Kwa zolemba zowoneka bwino za Al Andalus zili muzomangamanga ndi chakudya: komwe anthu amakhala ndi zomwe amadya. Chakudya nthawi zonse chinali chosakaniza chachikulu cha zikhalidwe, kusiyana kwa malingaliro kugwa patebulo la chakudya chamadzulo.

Zakudya zambiri kum'mwera kwa Spain sizikanakhalapo popanda chikoka cha Chisilamu: Aarabu anabweretsa ku Ulaya kudutsa Strait of Gibraltar kugwiritsa ntchito paprika ndi amondi; anabweretsa lingaliro la chakudya chamagulu atatu ndi makeke ochuluka. Ngakhale mbale zambiri za Chisipanishi, paella, sizikanatheka Aarabu akadapanda kubweretsa kulima mpunga, kapena safironi yomwe imapatsa mbaleyo mtundu wake wachikasu.

Koma Mustafa amandiuza nkhani ina yomwe ikuwonetsa kugwa kwa zikhalidwe. Amandibweretsera mbale ya bastella, makeke opyapyala opangidwa ndi nkhuku, maamondi okazinga ndi mazira.

Iye anati: “Izi n’zimene ankadya ku Granada, koma Aarabu atathamangitsidwa, anapita ku Fez.

"Ndine wochokera ku Fez - ku Fez, timapanga ndi nkhunda, osati nkhuku. Koma bastella adayiwalika ku Granada pambuyo pa Reconquista ndipo adangopezedwa ndi opanga makeke aku Spain mzaka makumi awiri zapitazi, pomwe a Moroccan adayamba kubwera. Anthu aku Morocco abweretsanso cholowa cha Spaniard.

Ndi Lachisanu usiku, usiku wanga womaliza ku Granada, ndipo ndatopa ndi miyala ndi miyala yakale. Wapaulendo waku Italiya amandiuza za malo abwino kwambiri a tapas, obisika pakati pa mipiringidzo ndi malo odyera omwe amawombera chigawo cha yunivesite.

Ndimayendayenda m'misewu ya kum'mwera ndi kumadzulo kwa Plaza Trinidad, komwe aliyense ndi wamng'ono, wachi Spanish ndipo amakondwerera kutha kwa maphunziro awo. Malo omwe mayina a anthu akufa amakhala m'mabuku ndipo achichepere amang'ung'udza nkhani zawo, zomwe amadya popanda cholowa koma chawo. Sindimapeza malo a tapas.

Izo, ine ndikuganiza tsopano, zinali chabe mphekesera ina.